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The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon opens with a gorgeous Left Bank–inspired nose of blackberry, graphite, and expressive cedarwood, layered with rich tobacco nuances. Medium-bodied on the palate, it features fine, dusty tannins and vibrant black currant fruit, with notes of loamy earth, vanilla bean, and savory wild herbs framing the long, focused finish. A tremendously satisfying wine of elegance and mineral purity. Belle Fiore Winery is an estate in Oregon’s Rogue Valley, with 31 acres of planted vineyards.

This is a Caprettone, a grape variety from Coda di Volpe in the Vesuvio DOC in Campania, typically blended. Grown on the Belle Fiore estate, there is a bout an acre and a half and winemaker Rob Folin fermentes ina m ix of ss, acaica and French oak all neutral. It’s a bracing, refreshing, lemon-lime-bright wine with nice nutty notes in the nose and loads of canided citrus fruit and vivid acidity. Great tension.
Winemaker Rob Folin says he loves the sweetness and toastiness imparted by the Icon barrels used to age this wine—“it’s not just salt and pepper,” he notes, “it’s the steak and butter sauce, too.” The 2019 was fermented in open-top bins and aged in 40% new French oak Icon barrels. The result is a terrifically spicy wine with good density and width, dark cherry fruit dusted with cardamom and coriander, hints of wood smoke, clove, and allspice, and super-fine, sweet tannins that carry through a long, elegant finish.

Winemaker Rob Folin’s second vintage at Belle Fiore. This is a robust and bold Pinot Noir with a rich, dark-fruited profile, black cherry, and cherry coulis, rose petals and sgaebrush. Has a MB palate feel with firm tannins and notes of black tea on the finish. Fermented in open top bins, and aged 18 months in 30% nfr.

The Signature Series Syrah, was just two barrels, and fermented in open-tops and aged in 50% nfr for 22 months. Winemaker Rob Folin says this is the best barrel in the cellar in 2019 and the second barrel complements this Syrah. The aromastics are incredibly hedonistic with cinnamon and allspice, with asomeo f the meaty Syrah characterur shining through with red cherry, blackberry, and blue fruit with notes of dried violets

If the 2020 Camp Lucy Malbec showed the delicate, lifted side of the variety, the 2019 reveals its deeper register. This vintage is more dark-fruited, with a richer, more concentrated core and noticeably greater mid-palate weight. You still get the signature cherry character, but it trends darker—black cherry and black plum—supported by firmer, more assertive tannins. The finish echoes the 2020 in its white-pepper lift and limestone-driven mineral notes, but here they play against a denser, more brooding fruit profile. A compelling, more structured counterpoint to the elegance of the 2020.

This Tannat from Bending Branch was finished in bourbon barrels, with flash detente and cryo-maceration, and fermented in half-ton open-top fermenters. Sourced from two vineyards, it offers intriguing aromas of brandied morello cherry fruit and leather spices, mingling with sappy tannins on the medium-bodied palate. Softer and fleshy in the mouth, the wine reveals nice baking spice character, with layers of toffee, espresso bean, and a hint of molasses on the finish.

This super savory, medium-bodied Merlot opens with crunchy cherry and dark berry fruits, complemented by underbrush and pastille notes. As the wine develops, it reveals layers of blue fruit jam and a touch of tobacco leaf. The finish is long and satisfying.

Bingham Family Vineyards’ Texas High Plains 2019 Petit Verdot is a rich and meaty wine, offering vibrant red currant fruits, spicy charcuterie, and strawberry balsamic notes. These flavors build on the soft, medium-bodied palate, framed by velvety, fine tannins.

Ferments are done in barrel, followed by ageing for up to 15 months in 20% new French oak. Attractive red and black berry fruit leads, with nuances of graphite, tobacco, elegant cedarwood aromatics, and rose petal florals. Medium-bodied on the palate, with firm, structured tannins and notes of espresso bean, all lifted by blood orange acid tension. The lengthy finish carries a touch of mesquite smoke. Grapes are sourced entirely from the 7-acre Blackmon Ranch Vineyard in the Texas Hill Country AVA.

The 2019 Blackmon Cabernet Sauvignon from the Texas Hill Country is a fantastic wine that beautifully showcases classic Cabernet character. It offers satiny, slightly sappy tannins that are beautifully integrated, complemented by a melange of dried herb notes and delectable black currant and spiced plum fruits. Rich and enticing, it delivers fantastic structure and length, highlighting the potential of the Texas Hill Country. Aged 15 months in roughly 30% new French oak, this dynamic Cabernet is a standout expression of the region. The winemaker is Anthony Offhill.

Compared to 2018, the 2019 release is crisper and more focused, showing lifted wet-stone and flinty-mineral character. White floral notes and tangerine oil add further lift while the medium-bodied palate is entirely fresh with grippy acid tension. Crushed Marcona almonds add nuance to the lengthy pressed-wildflower finish. Vineyard sources include: Heintz and Freestone. Native yeast fermented, aged for 15 months in fine French oak, including in Marcel Cadet barrels. ($100) 14.1% alcohol. 183 cases produced.
Wonderfully fragrant, fresh, and inviting, with notes of rose petal and incense layered over blackberry and blood orange. Medium-bodied on the palate, it carries a terrific thread of saline acidity, staying beautifully focused and juicy through a lengthy, brown-baking-spice finish. The fine tannins in Troubadour often show a black tea quality. Vineyard sources include: Kanzler, Schell Estate, Little Boot, and Bush Crispo Vineyards. Roughly one-third is whole-cluster fermented with native yeast in open-top tanks, aged for 16 months in fine French oak. ($125) 13.9% alcohol.

The Buffalo Roam Reserve is a savory red wine that combines 65% Syrah, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petite Sirah, and 6% Cabernet Franc. It offers very attractive green olive tapenade notes that mingle with red currants, dried herbs, and spices. Medium-bodied, it is framed by black tea tannins and complemented by tobacco, sage, and a hint of dried spearmint on its complex finish.

The Brennan Vineyards Tribute Red, created in honor of late winery founder Dr. J. Patrick Brennan, is an elegant and savory wine that offers a rich profile of currant fruits, tobacco spices, cedarwood, and tanned leather. The wine is further enhanced by delicate notes of dried rose petals and violets. Medium-bodied with expressive tannins, it shows layers of fig jam and currant jelly, intertwined with sagebrush, thyme, and black truffle nuances. A beautifully complex wine, it has both depth and refinement, making it a memorable tribute to its namesake.

This Reserve Petite Sirah from the Texas High Plains is a full-throttle, meaty red with ripe currant fruit, charcuterie, and dried strawberry, complemented by dried herb nuances of prairie grass and sage. Medium-bodied, it boasts black tea-scented tannins, along with layers of black truffle, loamy earth, and delicate pressed violets and hydrangea notes.

This is a wonderfully rich and meaty red with impressive depth of fruit, yet it never veers into cloying or overt sweetness. It doesn’t possess the sheer intensity of a Napa Petit Verdot, but instead offers brightness and vividness underscored by firm acidity. There’s real personality here, with wild, sauvage notes ranging from dried sage and bay leaf to rose stem. The finish is bold, dry, and tannic, chased by mouthwatering acidity.

After fermentation in open-top bins with daily punchdowns, this Malbec was aged for 19 months in American oak (21% new). Winemaker Larry Dino favors Pennsylvania oak for this wine, noting its signature bacon-like, meaty character—which is unmistakably present here. That savory quality mingles seamlessly with dark berry and blueberry fruit, supported by a streak of savory spice. The tannins are gritty and granular, adding texture and structure, yet the wine remains fresh and vibrant. A robust, distinctive Malbec that will soften with time in bottle.

The 2019 Brut—a méthode champenoise sparkler made from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier—is sourced from multiple vineyard sites along the east side of Seneca Lake. Each lot was vinified separately in stainless steel and aged sur lie for three months before tirage. Disgorged in 2025 after five years en tirage, this wine offers a complex and richly textured profile. Baked apple, pear, and apricot lead the aromatic charge, followed by confected notes of apple tart and apricot pastry, with buttery, nutty undertones adding depth on the mid-palate. An assertive mousse softens into a gentle froth, while the long, saline-acid finish brings lift, freshness, and tension to this more opulent style of sparkling. My kind of bubbly!
Flat Creek Estate’s “Super Texan” is a fragrant, meaty red wine with a red-toned character. It offers a medium- to full-bodied palate, enriched with savory notes of truffle, underbrush, and green tobacco, finishing with a long, persistent limestone mineral thread.

Focused and linear, this estate-grown sparkling wine leads with bright apple and lime zest notes, followed by subtler hints of French pastry. The gentle mousse gives way to a brisk, acid-driven finish. Hand-picked and whole-cluster pressed from certified sustainable estate vineyards, the wine was partially barrel fermented to build texture.
Aged 53 months en tirage, this estate-grown méthode traditionnelle blend of 65% Chardonnay and 35% Pinot Noir hails from the Standing Stone Timeline and Magdalena vineyards. It opens with aromas of just-picked orchard fruit warmed in the sun, underpinned by subtle French pastry notes. The palate is driven by crystalline acidity and bracing tension, finishing with a vivid streak of wet slate minerality.
Produced in the Méthode Champenoise style, this Oregon sparkling wine is exceptionally limited—just 70 cases, or roughly 1.5 barrels. Aged en tirage for 37 months, it opens with a bold nose of lavish French pastry and lemon pot de crème. The concentrated, hearty mousse reveals layers of cherry fruit, white plum, and saline-acid minerality, all carried by building tension. Juicy, focused, and impressively long on the finish.
The 2019 Brut Cuvée marks the second vintage of Irvine & Roberts’ Méthode Champenoise–style sparkling wine. A blend of 59% Chardonnay and 41% Pinot Noir, it was aged en tirage for 37 months. Winemaker Brian Gruber often conducts two separate picks—one to capture acidity and one for ripeness—with harvest typically spanning from late August to mid-October. The wine offers beautiful purity of orchard and citrus fruit, layered with French pastry notes, lemon peel, and chalky minerality. The mousse is assertive yet creamy, underscored by bracing acid tension. Fabulous, layered, and full of energy.
The 2019 Brut Cuvée Zero Dosage spent an additional six months en tirage and is crafted in the Méthode Champenoise from a blend of 59% Chardonnay and 41% Pinot Noir. Winemaker Brian Gruber often conducts two separate picks—one for acidity, one for ripeness—with harvest typically taking place between late August and mid-October. This release offers a beautifully natural sweetness that stretches the palate, balanced by bracing acid tension. Savory notes of white truffle and flaky croissant mingle with bright lemon, quince, and layered citrus, all carried by remarkable length and precision.
This Petite Sirah comes from 2012 plantings at Newsom Vineyards on Indian Hill in the Texas High Plains. The vineyard, located about 40 miles west of most sites in the High Plains, sits near the New Mexico border and features unique soils—shallow sandy clay loam transitioning to chalky limestone, with the Petite Sirah blocks on a knoll of iridescent red sand over fractured limestone. Bin-fermented with whole berries and ample oxygen exposure, this wine moves away from the typical inky and heavy style of Petite Sirah. Instead, it offers a balanced and elegant profile of dark currants, black cherry, and high-toned blue fruits, accented by cedarwood notes. The palate is medium-bodied, with spiced plums, brandied Morello cherries, and currants, layered with savory tobacco and leather. The fine, black tea-like tannins are beautifully integrated, enhancing the wine’s structure and depth, and adding a sense of sophistication.

The fruit for this traditional method sparkling wine was sourced from Clone 4 vines in our Terra West Vineyard, a 5-acre sustainably certified estate in the Seneca Lake AVA. Hand-harvested and whole cluster pressed, the base cuvée underwent primary fermentation in stainless steel before aging on the lees for 12 months. The wine was then aged en tirage for 4.5 years prior to disgorgement. It offers a fantastic mouthfeel with a rich, airy, frothy mousse and layers of tangerine peel, lime pith, and zesty lemon, with subtle baking spice notes on the bright, clean finish.
A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, this méthode champenoise sparkler is sourced from sustainably certified estate vineyards in the Seneca Lake AVA—Chardonnay Clone #4 from Terra West Vineyard and Pinot Noir from Round Rock Vineyard. Hand-harvested and whole cluster pressed, each variety was fermented separately and aged for 12 months in stainless steel before blending and spending 4.5 years en tirage. Steely mineral aromatics frame crunchy apple and pear notes, underpinned by saline-acid tension and an assertive yet focused mousse that resolves in a bone-dry, precise finish.
Dynamic and full of classic Riesling character, this traditional method sparkling wine delivers bright lemon-lime fruit, crunchy pear, and green apple carried by one of the frothiest, most lifted mousses that I encountered—ethereal and airy. Sourced from Clone 198 vines at the sustainably certified, two-acre Yellow Dog Vineyard in the Seneca Lake AVA, the wine was hand-harvested, whole cluster pressed, and left en tirage for four years before disgorgement. It finishes dry, with just a whisper of fruit sweetness, leaving a lasting, lovely impression.
Produced in the Méthode Champenoise style, the 2019 vintage is notably richer than the 2020 release, offering a flashier array of French pastry notes, buttered brioche, and baked orchard fruit. The mousse is beautifully rich and creamy, with the most delicate beading giving way to a fuller palate and a long, clean, and voluptuous finish.
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The Sparkling Brut from Ravines is a wonderfully complex, focused, and expressive wine made from 33-year-old Chardonnay vines and 32-year-old Pinot Noir vines grown at the Argetsinger Vineyard on the southeast side of Seneca Lake. The site’s Howard gravel soils over limestone bedrock lend a mineral edge to this traditional-method sparkler. The 2012 vintage was exceptionally warm for the region, with near-ideal conditions. Hand-riddled, and then disgorged in late 2019 with a dosage of under 5 g/L, it shows beautifully expressive notes of toasty brioche mingling with lemon and lime blossom. The mousse is frothy and creamy, resolving with notes of honey-drizzled almonds and saline-mineral tension on a long, bone-dry, mouthwatering finish.
This red blend, sourced from the 140-acre Narra Vineyard estate in the Texas High Plains near Brownfield, combines Malbec and Merlot aged for 36 months in all-neutral barrels, and showcases depth and refinement.The Malbec contributes a savory character, while the Merlot brings bright fruit and floral notes. Layers of sagebrush, Texas prairie grass, figs, and spiced plums define the aromatic profile, and with some air, intriguing black tea nuances emerge. The tannins, too, carry a black tea-like quality, seamlessly integrated and adding to the wine’s polished texture. A complex and balanced red.

The ‘B 17 00 RCV MER’ is 100% Merlot, all ENTAV 181 clone. Fermented in picking bins, then racked into stainless steel tanks to settle before being barreled down for 52 months. This wine smells and drinks like an aged Right Bank Bordeaux, with aromas of loamy earth, sooty minerals, spiced plums, and currant fruit layered over a subtle green tobacco leaf note. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, with firm, velvet-textured tannins, cigar box nuances, and underbrush emerging with time. Balanced tension and mouthwatering freshness carry the wine to a long, savory finish.

The ‘B 17 00 RCV RUB’ is the 2017 Ruby Cab, aged for an impressive 52 months in barrel. Winemaker Dan McLaughlin has consistently used 225L Radoux French oak for this wine. The nose still carries a touch of pyrazine character, but it’s mellowed, giving way to emerging notes of black currant, currant leaf, and espresso bean, layered with rich baking spices. The palate shows soft, velvety tannins that fuel the wine’s lengthy finish. To fully appreciate this wine, and the lengthy aging regimen, you really need to understand Dan’s winemaking philosophy and for that, you really need to meet him in person.

The ‘B 17 00 RCV TOU’ is 100% Touriga Nacional, aged for 52 months in neutral barrels. Compared to the 2016 release, which spent 36 months in barrel, this 2017 bottling offers lifted aromas of dried violets, rich nutty nuances, blue fruit tones, and a hint of grilled agave. Full-bodied on the palate, with rich loamy earth, black truffle notes, dark cassis, and tobacco. This is the kind of wine you’ll want to sip on all night—ideally after enjoying the 2016 with a well-salted steak.

From Mark Snyder’s Red Hook Winery comes this Reserve bottling, crafted by Christopher Nicolson with consulting by Napa Valley legend Robert Foley. A standout in the lineup I tasted on a Sunday in early June, this wine is rich, satiny, velvety, and plush. I first met Snyder years ago on the bottling line at Foley’s Howell Mountain winery. The wine shows real skill in coaxing supple fruit energy and layered charm from Seneca Lake-grown grapes. There’s plenty of power and length here, with firm tannins to support further aging. Black pepper, tobacco, loamy earth, and emerging black tea notes add nuance to the dark fruit core. It’s drinking beautifully now, but its structure promises even greater complexity with time.

Black olive, black plums, clay, graphite, and fresh wild herbs (including fennel and mint) all mark the nose on this delicious Merlot. This is really in a great drinking window right now, with the palate wonderfully balancing rich, plummy fruit, baking spice nuances, dusty bramble notes, and buoyant acidity. As the long finish fades, a pleasant astringency of blood orange peel joins with cedar and red plum. A really fine, balanced effort here, this is a Merlot that only Tuscany could make. Sourced from the Santa Maria parcel within the Petriolo area, this wine reflects a site that transitions from the lighter, Lamole-influenced soils at higher elevations to more clay-rich compositions lower down the slope. The vineyard itself is approaching three decades of age. Maturation takes place in French oak barriques over an extended period of roughly 18 to 24 months.

Sourced from the Martini Family Vineyard and aged on the lees for four years before disgorgement, this 2018 vintage sparkler hails from one of the most challenging vintages of the past decade. It opens with lovely baked orchard fruit, nuanced by delicate French pastry and toasted nut aromatics. The palate is rich and creamy, with a frothy mousse that finishes on a layered undercurrent of salty-saline and oyster shell minerality. Bright, and perfectly balanced.
The County Line Red Blend from Blackmon, sourced from the Texas Hill Country AVA, is a wine with a multifaceted nose, offering aromas of black currants and black tea. Well-balanced, its tannins are well-integrated and not over-extracted, allowing the fruit to shine. Framed by juicy, crunchy acidity, it features lovely undertones of underbrush and conifer, leading to a long, satisfying finish. The winemaker is Anthony Offhill.

Sourced from Heintz and Freestone vineyards. Heintz Vineyard was planted in 1982 to Clone 4 on AXR1—the large-berried selection developed by Harold Olmo at UC Davis. It forms the backbone of this wine. A distinctive element of the élevage is the barrels crafted by Marcel Cadet, who produces roughly 2,000 each year. Each barrel is submerged in water for about 20 minutes before toasting, effectively steaming and toasting simultaneously. This technique encourages greater expression of vanillin and crème brûlée notes, while the harsher tannins are leached out early in the toasting process. The result is a more perfumed, refined oak profile. Winemaker Bob Cabrall also ages some of the wine in heavier-toast François Frères barrels, adding depth and a marked contrast. In the glass, the wine is super-expressive, with oyster-shell minerality, ripe orchard fruit, and nuances of wildflowers, with a subtle beeswax note. It builds with impressive mouthfeel, yet finishes focused, carried by salty acidity and lingering baking-spice complexity. A pop of salted French butter on warm brioche is about as far as the oak character goes, and is perfectly integrated. Vineyard sources include: Goldrock Estate, Campbell, and Heintz. Native yeast fermented, aged for 15 months in that fancy French oak. ($100) 14.4% alcohol. 183 cases produced.
This medium-bodied Pinot Noir shows wonderfully bright, crunchy red fruit layered with blackberry and hints of sassafras. Nuances of white pepper add lift while black-tea-like tannins are beautifully resolved, underscored by saline minerality and blood orange acidity. Fresh and lifted. Vineyard sources include: Kanzler, Schell Estate (Paul Hobb’s estate), Little Boot, and Graham Vineyards. Average of 35% whole cluster fermented with native yeast in open top tanks, aged 16 months in fine French oak. ($150) 13.8% alcohol.

This Brunello is about as savory as they come. Stewed plums, tobacco leaf, baking spices, and earth tones mingle on the nose and in the mouth. Yes, it’s brawny, but there are streaks of elegance woven throughout as well. It needs a hearty, slow-cooked roast to show its true potential. – J.R.

100% Pinot Meunier. Crafted by father-daughter team Christophe Goulin and Marine from their perch in Sacy, a Premier Cru south of Reims. Alluring, exuberant, with racy elegance, poise, and a chalky mineral mid-palate. Black cherry fruit leads to a frothy mousse layered with vivid wildflowers, licorice, almonds, and white truffle.
The 2018 Blanc de Blanc is 100% Chardonnay, sourced from select sites along the east side of Seneca Lake. Each lot was vinified separately in stainless steel and aged sur lie for four months before going en tirage for five years, then disgorged in 2024. The wine offers a vinous brightness that leaps from the glass, building into a frothy, textured palate. Chalky minerality provides structure, while nuanced layers of toasty brioche and roasted almonds—gifts of the extended lees aging—bring depth and complexity.
This wine is always so enticing and so delicious. Because it’s held back, your first experience reveals a sumptuously earthy red, here, offering the hallmarks of the 2019 vintage: Beautifully sweet and fine tannins frame loads of plush black fruit, nuanced with tobacco spices, black truffle, and wet slate. Positively addictive and long on the full-bodied finish. What a hedonistic and yet beautifully balanced wine.

This Bordeaux blend features Cabernet Sauvignon Clone 685, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Carménère, aged for an impressive 48 months in neutral French oak. Named “Kanchi,” after a village in South India renowned for its wedding saris, the name evokes a sense of rich history and elegance—qualities reflected in the wine itself. The wine is both elegant and intense, offering high-toned red berry fruit and warm spices. Full-bodied, it boasts plump, velvety tannins with layers of mocha, brown spices like cardamom and coriander, and intriguing notes of grapefruit zest and orange peel. The finish is long and deeply satisfying, marking this wine as a standout.

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