The Latest Cristaldi Scores
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Wine
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Vintage
Wine
Color
Rating
Only 300 cases of Dragonette’s 2023 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir were produced—and what a wine it is. Crunchy cranberry and cherry fruit meld with ground espresso and a burst of dark Pacific Ocean sea salt. The beautifully sculpted tannins bring a sense of polish and ease, offering a smooth, approachable expression. Yet underneath, there’s serious structure built for aging. But let’s be honest—you’re probably going to drink it all between now and next weekend.
This 2023 Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir from Dragonette is a power-packed, juicy, and supple red, bursting with alluring aromatics of brown spices—think coriander, cumin, star anise, and a hint of curry—layered with dried rose petal, incense, and ground espresso bean. On the medium-bodied palate, tart, juicy red cherry and raspberry fruit are supported by salty, toasty, smoky minerality that carries through a long, lingering finish. It’s so appealing, you’ll be hard-pressed to put the glass down.
All you really need to know about this Rita’s Crown Chardonnay is that one glass will never be enough. You’ll swirl, sniff, sip—and suddenly want to chase its magic for days. It holds the energy of a late afternoon thunderstorm, with a moody edge and an electrically zesty palate, like a raincloud squeezing out lemon juice, shifting to lemon oil, then unleashing waves of fresh and candied ginger. It splashes across the palate like rain on slick slate—slightly smoky from the first drops hitting warm stone. Irresistible, complex, and utterly compelling. You just can’t get enough of this structured, dynamic, and gorgeous Chardonnay. It lives on the far side of “delicious”—a word we haven’t invented yet, but one that would mean delicious multiplied by infinity.
I’ve biked past this vineyard countless times, and to this day I marvel at the complexity of the wine that emerges from these vines. Surrounded by neighboring vineyards, Vegelzang’s vines are planted on undulating slopes, surrounded by a patchwork of trees, shrubs, and rock formations, and the site exudes a quiet energy—and all of it seems to pour into the glass. The 2023 vintage is something special: pure apple and apricot notes lead the way, joined by crunchy pear and bright sea grass—the kind that grows wild on oceanfront sand dunes. A deeply penetrating salinity evokes salted candied lemon peel, nuanced by lime blossom and crushed Marcona almonds. This is Sauvignon Blanc Paradiso. And whether or not you think you love Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll love this wine. You can’t help it.
Dragonette continues to produce some of California’s most compelling Sauvignon Blancs and this Grassini Family Vineyard, situated inland enough so that a north-south mountain range blocks the Pacific coastal breezes, preventing them from cooling the canyons where this grows and as such the wine is generous in its creamy orchard fruit character, stunning lemon-lime oil purity and unbeleiveable mid-palate depth, like diving into the depths of a salty, briny, ocean, coming up with a handful of oysters. It has that kind of sea-like minerality with lemon blossom and lime zest and porached pear and apple fruit with subtle apple skin tannins. It’s a helluva Sauvingn Blanc. Meaty and laser focused.
Bracing and intense, this wine opens with a flash of saffron oil that’s quickly washed clean by a remarkable lime-scented rainstorm—cooling the old slate sidewalks of your neighborhood, enlivening the palate with scents and flavors of a wet pear or apple orchard, and settling in for the day on the mid-palate, carrying a cloud-like density—weighty yet airy—an enigma in and of itself. That acid tension is no illusion. It’s crystalline, bright, and perfectly balanced by a chalk-like minerality. It’s almost too complex to wrap your head around—so don’t. Just drink it. And by god, pair it with oysters or calamari.
Dragonette continues to produce some of California’s most compelling Sauvignon Blancs. This entry-level bottling serves as the precursor to their trio of single-vineyard SBs, offering a vivid preview of the house style. Sourced from the Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara AVA, it’s a dynamic wine driven by orchard and tropical fruit, zesty sea grass, and prairie herbs. A kiss of vanilla and creamy oak spice mingles with lime oil, saffron, and quince, all carried on a long finish laced with crushed almonds and fine sea salt.
This is a nicely structured wine that lands somewhere between Napa Valley and Bordeaux on the palate, with crunchy red-berry fruit, graphite minerality, and expressive dusty cedarwood. Fine-grained tannins linger, lifted by subtle notes of dark chocolate, ironstone, and a zesty spine of tingly acidity. It’s that vibrant acid tension that evokes Bordeaux, while the firm, integrated tannins nod to Napa—wrapped in the distinctive minerality and energy that define Happy Canyon.
This blend of 68% Syrah, 21% Grenache, and 11% Mourvèdre delivers a pleasingly spicy, red-fruited wine that brims with the aromatic intensity of a just-baked blondie cookie. Ripe, juicy red fruit defines the silky palate expression, building to a lengthy, fruit- and spice-driven medium-bodied finish.
This Pinot Noir was aged on the lees for 17 months in 50% new French oak. Classic Bing cherry and spiced plum leap from the glass, joined by toasty cherry wood and dark chocolate, accented with subtle, crunchy currant fruit. Warm baking spices abound in this gracefully textured wine, which glides across every corner of the palate all too easily.
This Santa Barbara County Grenache comes from Sans Liege, a Tin City–based producer in Paso Robles, with fruit sourced from Alta Mesa Vineyard in the Cuyama Valley. The label is incredibly cool—and the wine delivers, too. It’s zesty and zippy, driven by vibrant acid tension that resolves into a chalky mineral texture. Medium-bodied and expressive, it’s rife with dark cherry, raspberry, and strawberry fruit, layered with notes of chocolate, cinnamon, and dusty dried rose petal.
From Sashi Moorman (CEO at Povignage and managing partner for Domaine de la Côte, Sandhi Wines, and Evening Lands), comes this striking wine. Just 12 barrels were produced from regeneratively farmed vines nestled in a patch of oak woodland between Highway 1 and the Pacific Ocean, called the Jalama Canyon Ranch, owned by the White Buffalo Land Trust. This marks the third vintage of this bottling, and my first taste confirms what I suspected: if Moorman is behind it, I don’t just want a glass—I want most of the bottle. Tart, ripe, and expressive red berry fruit mingles with vivid white pepper spice and rich cherry pit character, all growing more intense and savory on the medium-bodied palate. Super fine, firm, mineral-rich tannins form a perfect foundation, supporting dusty salinity and waves of juicy, crunchy red berries and orchard fruit—like biting into a tart, crisp red apple or freshly picked raspberry. It’s layered with chalky white pepper and finishing with vibrant tension. Intriguing and complex. The proceeds of this wine go back to the White Buffalo Land Trust, which is focuses on “the principles of regenerative agriculture, we are developing systems that support biodiversity, water resources, soil and human health while enhancing ecosystem services,” according to its website.
From Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard in Santa Maria Valley, this old‑vine Chenin Blanc offers an intriguing nose of fragrant, freshly cut green herbs and tangy lime zest. On the light- to medium-bodied palate, white peach and apricot notes emerge, coaxed forward by crushed Marcona almonds, crunchy sea salt, and a firm mid-palate minerality—think crushed chalk. The finish deepens into richer layers of lemon and tangerine oil.
Sourced from the famed Bentrock Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA—perched right next to Radian on the literal edge of the AVA boundary—this Chardonnay from Dusty Nabor is almost comical in name alone, because the wine itself is anything but. Bentrock is, in fact, the dusty neighbor to Radian, where powdery white diatomaceous soils are relentlessly blasted by Pacific winds. The result? A Chardonnay so salty and lemon-charged you’d be forgiven for thinking it hailed from Chablis—or even a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. But no matter where your mind places it, this wine is unmistakably Sta. Rita Hills. Its lemon-lime and white flower intensity only deepens on a razor-sharp, acid-driven palate, finishing with a wet slate minerality so stark and pulsating, it’s like staring into the depths of the Milky Way.
From Katherine’s Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley—owned by Katherine Jackson—this is a bold, rich, and toasty Chardonnay bursting with yellow peach, pineapple, ripe apricot, and vanilla crème brûlée, all drizzled in a creamy caramel sauce. For all its decadence, the wine remains surprisingly bright on the palate, with a warming spice richness at the core and a lengthy, juicy, slightly salty finish. You could never go wrong pairing this with one of Julia Child’s classic roast chicken dishes.
A touch more elegant and delicate, this Pinot Noir reveals savory notes of black tea and bergamot, with Earl Grey–like tannins framing the medium-bodied palate. Fabulous orange peel nuances carry through, supported by a long, spicy finish that highlights the character of the clone. Refined and beautifully detailed. Winemaker Brian Gruber explains that this Pinot Noir is a blend of older plantings and newer vines established in 2018. Grapes are mostly destemmed, though select lots are fermented with whole clusters for blending flexibility. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel, with individual blocks vinified separately. After a short cold soak, native fermentations begin, accompanied by a regimen of pumpovers and punchdowns. Following primary fermentation, an extended maceration of up to 28 days builds mouthfeel, mid-palate weight, and structure. The wine is gently pressed, with primarily free-run juice selected for the final blend. It is aged in roughly one-third new French oak for up to 18 months before blending and bottling.
Ascendance, the top cuvée, offers a lovely creamy texture balanced by exceptional length, with spicy ginger and granitic minerality shining through. Gorgeously medium-bodied, it has a satiny palate feel and beautifully layered notes of Indian spices and ginger. A refined and elegant expression of site and craft. Winemaker Brian Gruber explains that they work with 10 different clones of Chardonnay, most of which are planted on granitic soils. He prioritizes acidity at harvest, often doing multiple picks within the same block to build complexity and ensure he never needs to add acid. After settling overnight, the juice is racked to barrel and inoculated with native yeast in-barrel. The wine is aged for up to 15 months in one-third new French oak and goes through full malolactic fermentation. Lots are kept separate throughout aging, lees stirring is minimal, and blending occurs just before bottling. Of the three estate Chardonnays Winemaker Brian Gruber produces, Ascendance is the top cuvée and the first blend assembled—focused on precision and structure. Convergence follows, crafted for more roundness and ripeness, while the Estate Chardonnay is blended last, offering an expression that reflects the broader vineyard character.
Malbec is something Rogue Valley producers do exceptionally well, and in the right hands, it shows bright red and black-toned berry fruit with elegant baking spices and a stony mineral character—and this wine has that in spades. It’s not inky dark, but a beautiful deep ruby, framed by balanced tannins and acidity. The tannins are plump yet firm, and the acidity carries a saline edge with excellent grip—like a bite of crunchy sea salt on a juicy cut of beef. This is a dynamic and thoroughly satisfying Malbec from Peter William.
