This 2021 Monroy Wines Cabernet Sauvignon hails from Kick Ranch, a 40-acre vineyard on the western slope of Spring Mountain in the Mayacamas Mountains, within the Fountaingrove District of Sonoma, where vines thrive in iron-rich soils—and that mineral quality is immediately evident on the nose. It’s highly expressive, with notes of iron and crushed stone alongside dark, earthy minerality, forest underbrush, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, and blackcurrant and cassis fruit. On the palate, it’s beautifully polished and expressive, with cocoa-powder tannins and a wonderfully seamless finish that echoes the character and depth of the bouquet. A splendid wine from Adolfo Hernandez, who explained his background and winemaking style to me as follows: “I was the enologist and then assistant winemaker at Eisele Vineyard, splitting my time—two years each—between the Araujos and Château Latour. From there, I spent a year with Martha McClellan at Checkerboard, where we also made her gorgeous Levy & McClellan wines. In 2017, I started as associate winemaker at Benovia in the Russian River Valley with Mike Sullivan, where I’m happily still working today. I now make Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for Benovia while also producing wines under my own Monroy label. I focus on crafting cooler-climate style Cabernet Sauvignon that emphasizes floral and savory notes. All fermentations are done in barrel via closed-head rolling macerations, which I cooper myself. Barrel fermentation gives richness and density to the wines without the need to blend or harvest riper, more bombastic components, and naturally keeps the alcohol levels at or below 14%. I use only French oak, typically around 40% new.”