The Latest Cristaldi Scores
Vintage
Wine
Color
Rating
Vintage
Wine
Color
Rating
Sexton Hill Vineyard is a steep, north-facing site located about 10 miles from the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean. The vines are planted in Goldridge sandy loam soils, and the wine was aged 10 months in 35% new French oak. This is an easy-drinking, focused red with mixed berry fruit, appealing aromatics of clove, anise, and gentle wood smoke. The palate is supple and balanced, finishing with a smooth, velvety texture that makes it effortlessly enjoyable.
The 2022 Sexton Hill Vineyard Chardonnay comes from a site in the Sebastopol Hills with vines rooted in classic Goldridge soils. Aged 18 months in 25% new French oak, it’s a ripe, orchard fruit–driven wine with crisp, crunchy acidity and lingering notes of buttered croissant and almond pastry. Rich and attractive without ever feeling heavy, it remains lean, focused, and full of flavor
Perhaps the boldest, most expressive, and structured of the five Balletto wines tasted during my visit to the Sonoma County Vintners offices, this was a clear standout in the lineup. The BCD Vineyard lies on rolling hills that rise toward the coastal mountain range, a site that imparts both freshness and depth. Fermented with indigenous yeast in small six-ton open-top tanks and aged in French oak barrels, the wine opens with sumptuous cedarwood aromas intertwined with cherry and clove, creating an alluring impression of cherry-scented wood smoke. Medium-bodied on the palate, it delivers supple tannins and concentrated mixed berry fruit, finishing with notes of clove, incense, and wet slate minerality. A wine of impressive length, tension, and energy.
From Hambrecht Vineyard at the top of Dry Creek Road, this Zinfandel was aged for 16 months in three-year-dried American oak barrels. It is robust and powerful — a fitting send-off, as it is the last Zinfandel B Cellars will make. Dark-fruited and savory-spiced, with ample tannins and rich brown baking spices, it shows fig paste, cherry fruit and gorgeous length.
This is a spectacular Zinfandel, with gorgeous red- and black-toned aromatics, loamy earth, robust tannins, and impressive acid grip. Beautiful, lacy ironstone minerality and apple-skin tannins bring freshness, verve, and drive, all framed by sturdy, firm structure that underscores the juicy, ripe, concentrated fruit from 130-year-old vines. Impressively long and layered for a Zinfandel. Aged in 40% new French oak.
Sourced from Calesa Vineyard, a Petaluma Gap site perched on a high plateau with northwest-facing slopes and soils flecked with gravel and quartz. The nose is absolutely gorgeous — dark cherry fruit, warm brown baking spices, a hint of soy, black truffle, and velvety tannins, with a touch of sea-salt savor. The palate shows impressive depth: grapefruit peel, black sea salt, a broad, velvety texture, and a refined, seamless expression. Terrific grip and tension, yet still lush and inviting. Super cool — this one will fire you up.
From Manzana Vineyard, planted to Clones 777 and 828, and blended together. The site sits off Occidental Road, a hillside parcel close to Kanzler. The nose is elegant and expressive — cherry fruit, sagebrush, bay laurel — like walking in a cool Redwood grove — all building into medium richness with sweet baking spices woven around dark cherry and raspberry. Medium-bodied, with velvety tannins and a touch of cola root, plus lovely ironstone and earthy minerality and a hint of black-truffle charcuterie on the finish. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and gradually tapers off, after which the wine is racked into roughly 35–45% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.
Nightwing is super silky and luscious, built around a core of dark berry fruit and rich brown baking spices. The palate is wonderfully broad — velvety and silky at the same time — filling in all the gaps and finishing with a fabulous, laser-like line of complexity. It’s classic Venge style: hitting all the broad-palate markers yet finishing with lift, lightness, and brightness.
What a luscious, lovely, rich, and creamy Chardonnay — with plenty of acid verve. Delicious vanilla shows on the back palate alongside well-integrated cedarwood spice. There’s ample crunchy acidity to keep it fresh, bright, and classy. From Calesa Vineyard, all night-picked, whole-cluster pressed, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Some lots underwent native malolactic fermentation. Bâtonnage starts with more frequent stirring and tapers off as the wines age in roughly 35% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.
Wow — this is all acid. Candied mineral freshness, citrus fruit, bone-dry, crisp, vivid, clean, and bright. Wet chalk and slate, with a brightness that’s hard to beat. “These grapes hold their acid like a railroad track,” says winemaker Kirk Venge. Some honeyed notes and jasmine flowers linger on the finish. You need a pecorino drizzled in honey with this.
There’s a gravelly freshness that lifts out of the glass, carrying ultra–dark berry fruit with an impressively dense core — so pure, clean, and fresh that the wine is genuinely refreshing, yet still endowed with the depth and tannic intensity you want in a long-lived Cabernet. Tobacco spice, dried violets, and black fruit layer in alongside cool wet-slate tones on the impressively long finish. Del Rio Vineyard is a steep site straddling the highest reaches of Chalk Hill Road in the southeast corner of Alexander Valley, rooted in chalky volcanic soils. This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 22 months in 100% new French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Wow — this is something. Positively stellar, full-bodied, with chewy tannins that are perfectly framed, elongated and almost sensual in the way they caress the palate. The wine is rich, full-bodied, generous and complexly layered with mixed-berry fruit, yet it is overwhelmingly mineral and tension-filled. A distinctly gravelly complexity is evident, thanks to the vineyard’s soils — gravelly clay and gravelly volcanic deposits spread across the site — and the result is a wine of unimaginable freshness. It is spectacular. The SJ Ranch in Alexander Valley is a 7.9-acre vineyard of volcanic soils adjacent to Verité off Thomas Road. Cabernet Sauvignon Clones 337 and 7 are blended and aged for 22 months in 90% new French oak, then bottled unfined and unfiltered.
A beautifully full and expressive red wine, offering red cherry and blackberry fruit with graphite, fleshy new-wood cedar, and a savory olive-tapenade character. The palate is super creamy and richly textured, driven by pristine dark-berry fruit that leads into mulberry and blueberry. The tannins are gorgeous — cedar-kissed, full-framed, elongated, almost beam-like — and the finish carries a seductive mineral intensity that stretches out over lingering fruit and stone. Just splendid in 2023. Aperture’s Oliver Ranch surrounds the Michelin-starred restaurant Cyrus in Alexander Valley. Winemaker Jesse Katz has worked with this fruit since 2010 and produced his first single-vineyard bottling from the site in 2014. Designed by famed viticulturist Phil Freese in the 1980s on an old riverbed of polished stones, much of the 3.6-acre ranch is dry-farmed.
The Proterra (formerly known as Nomad) is a blend of 82% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Malbec, and 1% Petit Verdot. The name changed with the 2022 vintage. Aged 22 months in 85% new French oak. The wine is dark-fruited and savory-spiced, with notes of fig paste, blackberry, cherry, and cherry pie, along with salted dark chocolate and black-tea tannins that are substantial — almost chunky — underscored by good acid tension. Fragrant sagebrush and bay laurel add layers of complexity and spice. It’s a long, full-flavored wine with full-bodied richness that finds balance in its acid backbone, an impressive feat given the vintage.
The Cabernet is aged 18 months in 55% new French oak and 10% concrete. This is an ultra-delicious wine in 2023, with super expressive aromatics: dark berry fruit, tobacco spice, violet, graphite, and little pops of blue fruit. There’s a cocoa-powder tannin quality on the rich, layered palate, along with a chalky mineral complexity that drives the lengthy finish, all fueled by bright baking-spice notes and wild herbs. Sourced from SJ Ranch, Del Rio, Oliver, Farrow, and Aperture Estate. That freshness factor in this wine is partly the vintage, but also the highly technical winemaking going on here, and time spent in concrete. Just wow.
This is a co-fermented field blend of 11 different varieties from the two 1921 blocks planted at Aperture Estate — small blocks totaling under 8 acres. It’s treated like a Burgundian variety, picked early to accentuate ripeness and given a large saignée (30%) to concentrate the tannins. Aged 16 months in 30% new French oak, all in large 70-gallon barrels. There’s something wonderfully savory happening here. There’s Zinfandel, Petit Verdot, Carignan, some mixed whites, and cross-bred Petite Sirah selections (Pellier/Syrah), all coming together to build a meaty richness in the glass. Dark berry fruit, rich herbal-spice notes, violets, saddle leather, and black olive drive the aromatics. The tannins are firm yet velvety, supporting a full-bodied richness that finishes with creamy caramel accents and a stony mineral edge.
This is only the second vintage Katz has made of this wine, first produced in 2021. Sourced from old vines on a north-facing hillside at Farrow Ranch, it’s a vibrating, electric, wildly exciting wine — so flavor-packed and intensely mineral-focused, with a gorgeous wet-slate quality underscored by lemon-bright and lime-zest fruit. Green apple, apricot, and lychee drive the fruity core, and then that stony minerality kicks in. The oak work is beautifully delicate, framing the wine rather than weighing it down. It was aged 16 months in 70% new French oak, and with time in bottle it will continue to build complexity from that élevage. You can hold this wine in the cellar — and you should — as it will only grow richer and more savory with time. Farrow Ranch lies within the Alexander Valley AVA, in a site that sits inside a proposed new sub-AVA called Pocket Peak.
The 2024 is electric and vibrant, with incredible tension and length. It’s one of my favorite wines from Jesse Katz since I began tasting his lineup, and it’s hands down the best barrel-fermented white he’s made. Pretty beeswax notes and white flowers open the nose, followed by a squeeze of lime and bright, crunchy apple richness. Stony minerality drives the lengthy finish. Super dynamic. I want to drink this all holiday season while prepping big meals — this is my mise-en-place wine. This white was sourced entirely from estate fruit pulled from some of Aperture’s coolest sites, including plantings of d’Yquem clones, and includes 18% Semillon (all barrel-fermented) from the Dry Stack Vineyard — the highest proportion since the first vintage of their Sauvignon Blanc in 2016. While a small portion was fermented in cement, the 2023 was primarily barrel-fermented, including lots aged in Haut-Brion barrels with Acacia-wood toasted heads.
This is such a bright, lively wine, and it seems to get better with each vintage. It’s wonderfully expressive, marked by saline-acid tension, white flowers, and crushed almonds, with a generous richness on the palate that layers citrus and stone fruit into a long, mineral-driven finish. The 2024 Aperture Chenin Blanc comes from the Clarksburg AVA near California’s Sierra Foothills. Winemaker Jesse Katz notes that the 40-year-old, dry-farmed vines there benefit from cooling breezes funneled in from the San Joaquin River Valley. Fermentations were carried out in a mix of 30% new French oak, 30% once-used French oak, 25% neutral French oak, and 15% concrete tank. The season began with some hydric stress, as rains tapered off around March, leaving berries and clusters on the smaller side; late-season heat helped push ripeness. Katz discovered this grape on a challenge from a restaurateur who needed a white wine by the glass for oysters. He knew he wanted to work with old-vine Chenin Blanc—much of which is planted in Clarksburg near Sacramento—and, following a tip, he found this site and produced the first vintage in 2016.
