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Vintage

Wine

Color

Rating

This wine is a conversation piece. It hums with energy and tension, and there’s a real savory component—redolent of walking through a redwood forest—that expands into medium- to full-bodied richness on the palate. Exotic spices, white pepper, clove, deep pine-forest notes, and even a touch of charcuterie weave through the aromatics. There’s more power and intensity here than in the broader Sonoma Coast bottling, as you’d expect from these single-vineyard selections. A wonderful minty freshness mingles with crushed river stones, white pepper, and intriguing umami tones. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with substantial tannins—beam-like in structure, a bit sappy, and balanced by subtle mocha. It feels broad across the palate, building with spicy, textural richness. Dense black cherry, pomegranate, spiced plums, and blood orange deliver real staying power, while the long finish brings warming brown-sugar spice, toffee, and espresso bean. Plenty of heft, balanced by excellent tension. 503 cases made. Dan Kosta’s Convene wines are aged in 30% new oak, while his elevated DK label sees closer to 50% new oak for 15 months and represents specific blocks or barrel selections from single vineyards. Campbell Ranch Vineyard in the Russian River Valley is the winery’s largest holding, planted to clones 777 and 115.

Bottled entirely in magnum (to mark it as a wine for special occasions and sharing), The Approach represents a passion project for Dan Kosta and winemaker Shane Finley—just five barrels were made in 2023. Modeled after the Kosta Browne “Four Barrel,” this blend brings together fruit from Garys’ Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, Umino and Martaella vineyards in the Russian River Valley, and Campbell Ranch on the West Sonoma Coast near Westside Road. “Is this the best five barrels in the winery?” Dan asks. “No. If you have five wonderful kids, it doesn’t mean they’ll all play well together. It’s the best blend we can make from these sites—the best wine we can create from the components we have. It’s a winemaker’s wine.” The name The Approach is also a tribute to his father, an airline pilot. “You can’t have perfection in wine,” Dan says. “If I believed you could, I’d call it The Landing. But wine is an imperfect journey, so The Approach just fits.” Given that sentiment, Dan may not agree with my 100-point assesment, but I do. I love this wine. For me, this wine isn’t about terroir as much as it is about pleasure, complexity, and the cerebral art of blending. In its youth, it’s floral and brown-spiced with dark fruit and lush texture balanced by a tactile grip. The finish is long and compelling, inviting sip after sip. Certain site components shine brightly now, like the lush, fruity aspect from Santa Lucia, balanced by the intense earthy character of the Russian River Valley, but by 2029 or so, they’ll have fully harmonized—making patience well-rewarded if you wait to pop the cork.

The Rockpile Ridge Vineyard is a rocky, gravelly bluff at 1,480 feet, overlooking Lake Sonoma in the hills above Dry Creek Valley in the Rockpile AVA — a seriously rugged site. This wine is stunning. Sagebrush, mulberry, black raspberry, cherry and spiced plums lead a profile that is positively rich, with violets, blue fruit, crème de cassis and dark cocoa nibs. The tannins are elongated and precise. Aged 22 months in 100% new French oak.

This is the first time they have incorporated any Cabernet Sauvignon into this brand, but Jesse Katz has had his eye on a blend like this since his days at Viña Cobos — and he has absolutely nailed it. The wine was aged 22 months in 90% new French oak (60-gallon barrels), and it is lush and beautifully composed. Mulberry drives the profile, fresh and bright, with ultra-dark fruit, wild herbs, anise and violets. Gorgeous saline–acid tension meets crisp tannins, dark-chocolate notes and crunchy black fruit emerging on the palate, all delivered with precise focus. Quite simply a gorgeous wine, full stop.

From Block 17 at Farrow Ranch — the original block Jesse Katz sourced from long before he acquired the ranch in 2021. Dry-farmed since 2011, the vines have since been retrained, and the wine is aged 22 months in 80% new French oak of various sizes. This is super perfumed and elegant, with lovely savory saddle leather, dried violets, black olives, sagebrush, and thyme. On the palate, there’s blue fruit and black fruit with juicy, building richness and plenty of full-bodied depth, all carried by incredible tension. This is quite remarkable — generous yet taut, crisp and crunchy, and impressively fresh. Fresh fresh fresh.

Sourced entirely from the Kick Ranch Vineyard, this wine is native-fermented in open-top fermenters after a five-day cold soak, with 100% carbonic maceration and hand punch-downs, then aged 18 months in 65% new French oak. This is the Cabernet lover’s Sonoma County wine — rich, dark-fruited, and pure, with deep berry fruit and warm baking spices, toffee and caramel, tobacco, and flashes of blue fruit emerging on the palate. Molasses notes and firm, structured, elongated tannins give it power and presence. This is a baby, with plenty of baby fat, stuffing, and raw energy; it will benefit from a few years to unwind and mellow, and it should cellar quite nicely. A real crowd-pleaser.

From Monte Rosso Vineyard, this wine opens with white-pepper spice, black brambly dark-berry fruit, a touch of blue fruit, and toasty cedarwood, all lifted by violet tones and cocoa-powder tannins. It delivers a rich tapestry of robust structure, fabulous paprika spice, and a lengthy, full-bodied finish. Quite a wine. Aged 16 months in one-third new French oak, bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Sourced entirely from the property surrounding the winery, these vines were planted by Swiss-Italian farmers in 1904. In addition to Zinfandel, there’s Alicante Bouschet and Petite Sirah (the latter planted around 2018). Venge’s team farms the heck out of this site to suppress the wild yields Zinfandel naturally wants to give. Farming is organic. The wine is incredibly dark-fruited and sweet-spiced, with dried strawberry, layers of fruit leather, and warm sweet spices enhanced by the one-third American oak aging. Vanilla and chocolate notes weave through the palate, joined by more Asian-spice complexity. The finish is long and fruit-driven, supported by velvety tannins.

Stoetz Ridge Vineyard faces east and is planted entirely to Clone 667. It’s a low-yielding site, and the resulting wine is quite pretty yet carries good heft and grip. There’s an old redwood-grove character here, with red cherry fruit and an elegance and prettiness that define the style. Good length and an easy quaffer. All night-picked with 5–20% whole cluster, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and gradually tapers off, after which the wine is racked into roughly 35–45% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.

Kings Ridge sits near Hirsch, Flowers, and Martinelli’s Blue Slide Ridge — basically a stellar neighborhood. It lifts out of the glass with bright white-pepper spice, black–sea-salt aromatics, and warm brown baking spices. The palate is medium-bodied and creamy, with dark cherry fruit and an attractive, sumptuous richness. Wonderful earth and brown-spice notes thread through the mid-palate, carrying into a long, lingering finish. All night-picked with 5–20% whole cluster, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and gradually tapers off, after which the wine is racked into roughly 35–45% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.

From Manzana Vineyard, planted to Clones 777 and 828 and blended together. The site sits off Occidental Road, a hillside parcel close to Kanzler. This is a very classy, bright, crunchy, red-fruited Pinot with grapefruit zest and orange-peel essence on the fleshier mid-palate, yet it remains focused and precise throughout. There’s a lovely undercurrent of loamy earth and apple-skin tannins that tighten into a laser-focused finish. All night-picked with native-yeast fermentation. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and gradually tapers off, after which the wine is racked into roughly 35–45% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.

From the 5 Wells Vineyard in the Sebastopol Hills, this Pinot Noir is entirely Pommard clone and fermented with native yeast. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and gradually tapers off, after which the wine is racked into roughly 35–45% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined. It’s bursting with Asian spices, black cherry, blackberry, and dried strawberry. There’s a bright, ripe fruit sweetness woven through the palate, along with black tea notes, tangerine peel, and a brown-sugar–maple-syrup richness. Excellent, balanced tension carries into a long, lingering, umami-driven finish with plenty of deep-fruited fig paste concentration on the full-bodied close.

Nightwing sits right next door to Sun Chase Vineyard in the Petaluma Gap. This is a bold, fragrant, dark-fruited Pinot Noir packed with Asian spices and deep umami richness — black truffle, tobacco, soy — with super-youthful fruit pulsing beneath all that savory depth. Positively full-bodied, with a creamy, mouth-coating palate that carries this wine all day and all night. Bring it to your favorite steakhouse and go to town. All night-picked, native-yeast fermentation. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and gradually tapers off, after which the wine is racked into roughly 35–45% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.

Sourced from Bucher Vineyard, planted on river-valley gravels with pockets of volcanic material and shale — not classic coastal Goldridge. The site spans 38 acres just outside Healdsburg on what was once a cattle ranch, near Rochioli and behind MacRostie. The wine is super perfumed, with rose petals, blackberry, and black cherry, and it carries a wonderfully rich, creamy profile of spiced plums, raspberry fruit, and fruit leather. Tobacco and tangerine-oil notes weave through the palate. It’s quite unctuous given the warmer site, yet still bright, lifted, and edged with excellent saline-driven acidity. All night-picked with 5–20% whole cluster, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and gradually tapers off, after which the wine is racked into roughly 35–45% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.

Floodgate is the entry-level Pinot, sourced from several sites, including Starscape Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. A portion of this vineyard floods each winter due to its proximity to the Russian River, and fruit from additional RRV sites rounds out the blend. The wine is impressively rich, with dark cherry fruit, brown baking spices, caramel richness, allspice, and clove. It shows fabulous fruit weight and concentration, balanced by a gorgeous pink–Himalayan–sea–salt note on the extended, medium-bodied finish and cocoa powder tannins. All night-picked with 5–20% whole cluster, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and gradually tapers off, after which the wine is racked into roughly 35–45% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.

From 40-year-old vines on southeast-facing slopes in the Richard Dinner Vineyard, where the morning sun drives a slow, even ripening. This wine is richer and creamier than Starlings Roost or 12 Rows, so if you gravitate toward lower-acid, fuller-bodied Chardonnay with a broader, more luxurious mouthfeel, this is the one for you. It’s lemon-bright, with ginger spice, apricot, honeycomb, and white flowers, all supported by enough freshness to balance the richness. All night-picked, whole-cluster pressed, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Some lots underwent native malolactic fermentation. Bâtonnage starts with more frequent stirring and tapers off as the wines age in roughly 30% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.
From Morelli Vineyard in the Green Valley of Occidental. Kirk Venge says they often use this wine as a back-blender for acidity because it naturally carries such high acid — and it shows. This is a high-acid, bright, crunchy wine with lemon-bright lift, super fragrant with a crushed–sea-salt character, honeycomb, and pressed white flowers. Orchard and stone fruit come through ripe and juicy, with crunchy candied ginger on the lifted, bright finish. Super electric. That salted lemon-peel note brings an umami richness that never turns cloying. All night-picked, whole-cluster pressed, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Some lots underwent native malolactic fermentation. Bâtonnage starts with more frequent stirring and tapers off as the wines age in roughly 30% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.
Kirk Venge started working with Kent Ritchie in 2016. The site is composed of volcanic and Goldridge soils, and Kirk tells me Kent believes the volcanic striations are what make it unique. It sits farther from the coast, so there’s less of the ancient ocean-bed sediment you find in other pockets of the region. The vines are now a couple of decades old, and there’s a lovely balance in both aromatics and flavor — thanks in part to the “hens and chicks” berries (large and small berries together), which bring higher-toned lift balanced by richer skin-tannin texture. The result is a seamless, complete expression of Chardonnay with bright, pure fruit and a smooth, mouthcoating, velvety profile. It’s simply delicious. You don’t have to think about this wine; you just drink it. So make sure you have plenty on hand. All night-picked, whole-cluster pressed, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Some lots underwent native malolactic fermentation. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and tapers off as the wines age in roughly 40% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.
Sourced from Sun Chase Vineyard, typically the last pick of the season because it’s a cool site with morning dew and pockets of cloud that brush the west-facing slope. This wine is incredibly bright, with a sumptuous mouthfeel: tangerine oil, lemon oil, white flowers, rich candied ginger, apricot, and lemon zest. Beautiful, toasty oak spices add multidimensional personality, exceptional fruit weight, and concentration, all finishing with gorgeous saline-acid richness. A real pleasure-packed wine with exceptional length. All night-picked, whole-cluster pressed, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Some lots underwent native malolactic fermentation. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and tapers off as the wines age in roughly 40% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.
Such a bright, saline-driven wine, showing citrus fruit, brown baking spices, chalky minerality, and exotic stone-fruit tones, with lemon meringue and apricot on the rich, succulent palate. It finishes with medium-bodied richness and laser-focused acidity. A fantastic entry-level wine for Croix Estate. Mostly sourced from cool sites in the Russian River Valley, including parcels in Green Valley, Sebastopol Hills, and pockets of the Petaluma Gap. All night-picked, whole-cluster pressed, given a two-day settle, then treated with a small sulfur adjustment before native-yeast fermentation. Some lots underwent native malolactic fermentation. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and tapers off as the wines age in roughly 30% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.
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