Cristaldi Scores

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Bending Branch’s 2017 Tannat, sourced from Newsom Vineyards in the Texas High Plains, is a medium- to full-bodied red that opens with vibrant cherry and strawberry fruit notes, complemented by white pepper spices. A powerful baseline of tannins provides structure, with nicely ripe and well-integrated tannins that add depth and smoothness. As the wine unfolds, nuances of tobacco and sage build complexity, leading to a mineral-rich finish.

Aged six years en tirage with a dosage of 3 g/L, this is a bright, vinous sparkling wine with notes of almond, white flowers, and abundant orchard fruit. The palate is fresh, clean, and marked by a steely mineral edge.
Heady black truffle, wild herbs, licorice, and salty sea spray notes. A bright, assertive mousse leads to creamy waves of caramelized pears and bruised yellow apples through a salty mineral finish. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir.
A rare 100% Pinot Blanc from Ville-sur-Arce, farmed by Rémy Massin, a salt of the earth Récoltant Manipulant. Vivid and bright. Lemon zest, smoky minerals, and wildflowers. Voluminous with profound lemony-intensity and crisp orchard fruit. Long, concentrated finish. Ageworthy.
Bright and attractive with white flowers, orchard fruits, and flaky French buttered pastry. Rich with a persistent mousse and layers of yellow apple, poached pear, vanilla cream, pastry crust, and a lemony finish.
2017 marked the first year that partners Christopher P. Bates MS, and Robert W. Bates began farming this estate, managing to coax just under a ton per acre from the vineyard. Sourced from their Sunspot and Underdog blocks, the fruit was destemmed, spontaneously fermented with ambient yeasts, then basket-pressed and aged in old neutral French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, the wine strikes a nice balance between fruit density and rustic earthiness, lending real complexity. Dark cherry fruit and cocoa powder tannins create a chewy, textured palate, lifted by tangy acid tension. The low yields undoubtedly contribute to the wine’s depth and concentration. Now, eight years on, this wine still has a promising future ahead!

Glenora Wine Cellars was the first winery established on Seneca Lake and remains a pioneer in New York’s Finger Lakes wine region. This 2017 Blanc de Blanc is sourced entirely from Glenora Farms on the lake’s west side. After six years en tirage, the result is an impeccably bright and creamy sparkling wine, layered with orchard fruit and confected lemon bar notes. The finish is balanced and expressive, framed by toasted almonds, apple skin tannins, and a touch of lemon oil.
Sourced from 2013 plantings in the Rustic Spur Vineyard (the oldest Tannat vineyard on the northwest side of the Pedernales River Valley in the Texas Hill Country), this 100% Tannat is an outstanding effort of the region. Aged for 24 months in neutral oak, it offers a captivating nose, with rich aromas of loamy earth, black and red currants, plums, fruit spices, tobacco, and molasses. These elements transition seamlessly to the palate, which is full-bodied and defined by firm, soaring tannins that resolve beautifully. Layers of brown Indian spices, charcuterie, black tea, pressed wildflowers, dried fennel, and sage add complexity to the long, lingering, and expressive finish. Balanced and deeply nuanced.

The Sparkling Brut from Ravines is a wonderfully complex, focused, and expressive wine made from 33-year-old Chardonnay vines and 32-year-old Pinot Noir vines grown at the Argetsinger Vineyard on the southeast side of Seneca Lake. The site’s Howard gravel soils over limestone bedrock lend a mineral edge to this traditional-method sparkler. The 2012 vintage was exceptionally warm for the region, with near-ideal conditions. Hand-riddled, and then disgorged in late 2019 with a dosage of under 5 g/L, it shows beautifully expressive notes of toasty brioche mingling with lemon and lime blossom. The mousse is frothy and creamy, resolving with notes of honey-drizzled almonds and saline-mineral tension on a long, bone-dry, mouthwatering finish.
This red blend, sourced from the 140-acre Narra Vineyard estate in the Texas High Plains near Brownfield, combines Malbec and Merlot aged for 36 months in all-neutral barrels, and showcases depth and refinement.The Malbec contributes a savory character, while the Merlot brings bright fruit and floral notes. Layers of sagebrush, Texas prairie grass, figs, and spiced plums define the aromatic profile, and with some air, intriguing black tea nuances emerge. The tannins, too, carry a black tea-like quality, seamlessly integrated and adding to the wine’s polished texture. A complex and balanced red.

The ‘B 17 00 RCV MER’ is 100% Merlot, all ENTAV 181 clone. Fermented in picking bins, then racked into stainless steel tanks to settle before being barreled down for 52 months. This wine smells and drinks like an aged Right Bank Bordeaux, with aromas of loamy earth, sooty minerals, spiced plums, and currant fruit layered over a subtle green tobacco leaf note. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, with firm, velvet-textured tannins, cigar box nuances, and underbrush emerging with time. Balanced tension and mouthwatering freshness carry the wine to a long, savory finish.

The ‘B 17 00 RCV RUB’ is the 2017 Ruby Cab, aged for an impressive 52 months in barrel. Winemaker Dan McLaughlin has consistently used 225L Radoux French oak for this wine. The nose still carries a touch of pyrazine character, but it’s mellowed, giving way to emerging notes of black currant, currant leaf, and espresso bean, layered with rich baking spices. The palate shows soft, velvety tannins that fuel the wine’s lengthy finish. To fully appreciate this wine, and the lengthy aging regimen, you really need to understand Dan’s winemaking philosophy and for that, you really need to meet him in person.

The ‘B 17 00 RCV TOU’ is 100% Touriga Nacional, aged for 52 months in neutral barrels. Compared to the 2016 release, which spent 36 months in barrel, this 2017 bottling offers lifted aromas of dried violets, rich nutty nuances, blue fruit tones, and a hint of grilled agave. Full-bodied on the palate, with rich loamy earth, black truffle notes, dark cassis, and tobacco. This is the kind of wine you’ll want to sip on all night—ideally after enjoying the 2016 with a well-salted steak.

From Mark Snyder’s Red Hook Winery comes this Reserve bottling, crafted by Christopher Nicolson with consulting by Napa Valley legend Robert Foley. A standout in the lineup I tasted on a Sunday in early June, this wine is rich, satiny, velvety, and plush. I first met Snyder years ago on the bottling line at Foley’s Howell Mountain winery. The wine shows real skill in coaxing supple fruit energy and layered charm from Seneca Lake-grown grapes. There’s plenty of power and length here, with firm tannins to support further aging. Black pepper, tobacco, loamy earth, and emerging black tea notes add nuance to the dark fruit core. It’s drinking beautifully now, but its structure promises even greater complexity with time.

Vintage

Wine

Type

Color

Rating

$

Bending Branch’s 2017 Tannat, sourced from Newsom Vineyards in the Texas High Plains, is a medium- to full-bodied red that opens with vibrant cherry and strawberry fruit notes, complemented by white pepper spices. A powerful baseline of tannins provides structure, with nicely ripe and well-integrated tannins that add depth and smoothness. As the wine unfolds, nuances of tobacco and sage build complexity, leading to a mineral-rich finish.

Aged six years en tirage with a dosage of 3 g/L, this is a bright, vinous sparkling wine with notes of almond, white flowers, and abundant orchard fruit. The palate is fresh, clean, and marked by a steely mineral edge.
Heady black truffle, wild herbs, licorice, and salty sea spray notes. A bright, assertive mousse leads to creamy waves of caramelized pears and bruised yellow apples through a salty mineral finish. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir.
A rare 100% Pinot Blanc from Ville-sur-Arce, farmed by Rémy Massin, a salt of the earth Récoltant Manipulant. Vivid and bright. Lemon zest, smoky minerals, and wildflowers. Voluminous with profound lemony-intensity and crisp orchard fruit. Long, concentrated finish. Ageworthy.
Bright and attractive with white flowers, orchard fruits, and flaky French buttered pastry. Rich with a persistent mousse and layers of yellow apple, poached pear, vanilla cream, pastry crust, and a lemony finish.
2017 marked the first year that partners Christopher P. Bates MS, and Robert W. Bates began farming this estate, managing to coax just under a ton per acre from the vineyard. Sourced from their Sunspot and Underdog blocks, the fruit was destemmed, spontaneously fermented with ambient yeasts, then basket-pressed and aged in old neutral French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, the wine strikes a nice balance between fruit density and rustic earthiness, lending real complexity. Dark cherry fruit and cocoa powder tannins create a chewy, textured palate, lifted by tangy acid tension. The low yields undoubtedly contribute to the wine’s depth and concentration. Now, eight years on, this wine still has a promising future ahead!

Glenora Wine Cellars was the first winery established on Seneca Lake and remains a pioneer in New York’s Finger Lakes wine region. This 2017 Blanc de Blanc is sourced entirely from Glenora Farms on the lake’s west side. After six years en tirage, the result is an impeccably bright and creamy sparkling wine, layered with orchard fruit and confected lemon bar notes. The finish is balanced and expressive, framed by toasted almonds, apple skin tannins, and a touch of lemon oil.
Sourced from 2013 plantings in the Rustic Spur Vineyard (the oldest Tannat vineyard on the northwest side of the Pedernales River Valley in the Texas Hill Country), this 100% Tannat is an outstanding effort of the region. Aged for 24 months in neutral oak, it offers a captivating nose, with rich aromas of loamy earth, black and red currants, plums, fruit spices, tobacco, and molasses. These elements transition seamlessly to the palate, which is full-bodied and defined by firm, soaring tannins that resolve beautifully. Layers of brown Indian spices, charcuterie, black tea, pressed wildflowers, dried fennel, and sage add complexity to the long, lingering, and expressive finish. Balanced and deeply nuanced.

The Sparkling Brut from Ravines is a wonderfully complex, focused, and expressive wine made from 33-year-old Chardonnay vines and 32-year-old Pinot Noir vines grown at the Argetsinger Vineyard on the southeast side of Seneca Lake. The site’s Howard gravel soils over limestone bedrock lend a mineral edge to this traditional-method sparkler. The 2012 vintage was exceptionally warm for the region, with near-ideal conditions. Hand-riddled, and then disgorged in late 2019 with a dosage of under 5 g/L, it shows beautifully expressive notes of toasty brioche mingling with lemon and lime blossom. The mousse is frothy and creamy, resolving with notes of honey-drizzled almonds and saline-mineral tension on a long, bone-dry, mouthwatering finish.
This red blend, sourced from the 140-acre Narra Vineyard estate in the Texas High Plains near Brownfield, combines Malbec and Merlot aged for 36 months in all-neutral barrels, and showcases depth and refinement.The Malbec contributes a savory character, while the Merlot brings bright fruit and floral notes. Layers of sagebrush, Texas prairie grass, figs, and spiced plums define the aromatic profile, and with some air, intriguing black tea nuances emerge. The tannins, too, carry a black tea-like quality, seamlessly integrated and adding to the wine’s polished texture. A complex and balanced red.

The ‘B 17 00 RCV MER’ is 100% Merlot, all ENTAV 181 clone. Fermented in picking bins, then racked into stainless steel tanks to settle before being barreled down for 52 months. This wine smells and drinks like an aged Right Bank Bordeaux, with aromas of loamy earth, sooty minerals, spiced plums, and currant fruit layered over a subtle green tobacco leaf note. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, with firm, velvet-textured tannins, cigar box nuances, and underbrush emerging with time. Balanced tension and mouthwatering freshness carry the wine to a long, savory finish.

The ‘B 17 00 RCV RUB’ is the 2017 Ruby Cab, aged for an impressive 52 months in barrel. Winemaker Dan McLaughlin has consistently used 225L Radoux French oak for this wine. The nose still carries a touch of pyrazine character, but it’s mellowed, giving way to emerging notes of black currant, currant leaf, and espresso bean, layered with rich baking spices. The palate shows soft, velvety tannins that fuel the wine’s lengthy finish. To fully appreciate this wine, and the lengthy aging regimen, you really need to understand Dan’s winemaking philosophy and for that, you really need to meet him in person.

The ‘B 17 00 RCV TOU’ is 100% Touriga Nacional, aged for 52 months in neutral barrels. Compared to the 2016 release, which spent 36 months in barrel, this 2017 bottling offers lifted aromas of dried violets, rich nutty nuances, blue fruit tones, and a hint of grilled agave. Full-bodied on the palate, with rich loamy earth, black truffle notes, dark cassis, and tobacco. This is the kind of wine you’ll want to sip on all night—ideally after enjoying the 2016 with a well-salted steak.

From Mark Snyder’s Red Hook Winery comes this Reserve bottling, crafted by Christopher Nicolson with consulting by Napa Valley legend Robert Foley. A standout in the lineup I tasted on a Sunday in early June, this wine is rich, satiny, velvety, and plush. I first met Snyder years ago on the bottling line at Foley’s Howell Mountain winery. The wine shows real skill in coaxing supple fruit energy and layered charm from Seneca Lake-grown grapes. There’s plenty of power and length here, with firm tannins to support further aging. Black pepper, tobacco, loamy earth, and emerging black tea notes add nuance to the dark fruit core. It’s drinking beautifully now, but its structure promises even greater complexity with time.

Vintage

Wine

Type

Rating

$

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