Fermented and aged entirely in two brand-new François Frères barrels, this Chardonnay was stirred on heavy lees for 4–6 months and aged for a total of 18 months. Only 45 cases were made. With a pH of 3.59, the saline-acid tension is apparent from the very first sip and carries all the way through the lengthy finish. In between, you get a round, rich, and supple palate packed with pleasure: citrus oil, candied ginger, and beautifully integrated toasty oak. It’s refined yet generous, delivering layers of apple tarte tatin, poached pears, honeysuckle, and a lingering touch of black licorice. Talk about a Wow wine.