To fully appreciate this wine, you need the backstory, as laid out on the back label: “First there was Nuits Blanches, a blue label Chardonnay born from the frustration Jim Clendenen felt toward the critical response for his Chardonnays. It was bold, brash, obvious, and overwhelming. The 2000 vintage XXth Anniversary Chardonnay marked a style reconciliation. The richness and aggressiveness of the Nuits Blanches style would be tempered with the balance, acidity, and complexity of the Au Bon Climat ‘Bouge’ style. Power and elegance. Big entry and persistent finish. This bottling comes from ABC’s Bien Nacido ‘K’ Block Estate, and the Le Bon Climat Estate Vineyard across from the Santa Maria River. Now [the late] Jim can have his toast, and eat with it, too!” And on that note, this toasty, gorgeously focused Chardonnay opens like a morning walk on the beach, sea spray minerality weaving through the air like the scent of just-baked croissants. Lush and supple—like the underbelly of a crashing wave laced with lemon juice and lime zest—it delivers a cascade of white flowers and salted Marcona almonds. There’s a squeeze of tangerine, the bite of kumquat, and a whisper of butterscotch that lingers with subtle, enticing richness. Jim would be proud.