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Whole clusters were pressed directly and the wine was 100% barrel-fermented, then aged for 12 months in 32% new French oak and a further 6 months in stainless steel before bottling. Sourced from the El Diablo Vineyard along the eastern rim of the Russian River Valley, this is a wonderfully precise white wine with tangerine oil, white peach, yellow apple and poached pear. The mid-palate is luscious, creamy and silky, revealing decadent French-pastry and buttered-croissant notes, followed by a fabulous sea-salt finish. There is more richness here than in past years—and it’s a welcome evolution. These wines are beautifully balanced; Julien Howsepian is doing excellent work.
One of the bolder, more concentrated wines in the 2023 lineup I tasted with Julien Howsepian in December 2025. It shows multidimensional acid tension that gives the wine excellent grip. Generous brown baking spices and darker fruit lend a muscular profile, while notes of dried rose petals and rosemary essence add aromatic lift. The tannins are polished and persistent on the finish.

Fermented in a mix of stainless steel, concrete and oak, then aged 17 months in 40% new French oak, a combination of wood cask, foudre and stainless steel, and blended just before bottling. This is a beautifully elegant wine with subtle brown spices and violets, showing pure cherry and strawberry fruit. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins, it supports all that ripe fruit, which turns darker-toned with an understated youthful poise. The length is tremendous, carrying brown baking-spice character along with candied ginger, smoked paprika and cocoa nibs on the finish.

Fermented entirely in barrel with no whole cluster and aged for 12 months in 34% new French oak. Vineyard sources include Zio Tony, Lone Oak, Ritchie, Keefer Ranch, Bootlegger’s Hill, El Diablo, Charles Ranch, and Bob’s Ranch. The wine is incredibly rich and layered, with lemon peel, fresh lemon and ripe apple mingling with toasty oak spices, candied ginger and crushed almonds. A lovely saline minerality accents the palate. Medium to full-bodied with excellent mid-palate weight, it finishes quite crisp. Subtle notes of French pastry and oyster-shell minerality weave throughout. Truly captivating.
An absolutely gorgeous, perfumed nose of rose petals and cranberry fruit lifted by warm brown baking spices. The aromatics are bold and expressive yet remain pure and incredibly fresh. The palate bursts with bright, layered, beautifully ripe fruit—cherry, raspberry and cranberry—accented by a touch of grapefruit zest, clove and allspice. A long, stony mineral note reminiscent of wet river stones carries the everlasting finish. This is totally lights-out fantastic. Sourced from exceptional vineyards including Bootlegger’s Hill, Giusti Ranch, Treehouse, Winner’s Circle, Zio Tony, Moonshine, Jenkins, Sundawg Ridge and Barron Ranch. Fermented in 55% stainless steel, 25% concrete and 20% oak, with 5% whole cluster. Aged 16 months in 40% new French oak, with some foudre and some stainless steel.

This is your Saturday-night wine—the power broker, the one that will impress you and your guests. Bold, aromatic and richly flavored, it shows incredibly velvety tannins and a cocoa-powder softness, with dark cherry fruit, raspberry spice and pomegranate nuances. A hefty framework of apple-skin tannin adds crisp yet fluffy texture, while a firm pinch of acidity brings crunchy tension. The fruit is dark, ripe, supple and beautifully layered, balancing everything out and making for a wonderfully expressive, impeccably balanced Pinot Noir. Fermented in a mix of concrete, stainless steel, oak and whole cluster, then aged 17 months in 38% new French oak.

Poured by Greg Stach and Greg La Follette themselves at the 2025 Sonoma County Barrel Auction, this one-off Chardonnay is pure Sonoma history in the making. Bright and zesty, it shows citrus, brown spice, honeyed lemon and fresh ginger, with a medium-bodied frame, lovely mid-palate density and a long, slate-driven mineral finish. A singular, never-to-be-repeated collaboration that captures the soul of Lorenzo Vineyard with clarity, energy and depth.
Banana, white peach, pear, white flowers, and fragrant cedar wood lead the way in this balanced, medium-bodied Chardonnay, with the same fruit and cedar spice carrying through on the palate. It’s a pleasantly coaxing wine with a graceful mix of richness and lift. The Starr Ridge Vineyard is planted to the Montrachet selection (clone) of Chardonnay, prized for producing high-quality wines from its low-yielding grapes. The wine was whole-cluster pressed and barrel-fermented with native yeast, then aged for 13 months in French oak (30% new).
The Baer Vineyard Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley is fermented and aged entirely in terracotta amphora for ten months. Crafted by winemaker Cabell Coursey, it shows wonderfully crisp aromatics—apple skin, a touch of beeswax, Marcona almond, and a hint of sea spray. The texture is velvety with a subtle, almost tannic grip. The palate delivers a deep, flavorful expression of apple, pear, and dried apricot, with a firm hold through the mid-palate and plenty of length on the finish.
The Baer Vineyard Pinot Noir comes from clones 2A, 115, 667, and Pommard. It’s fermented in stainless steel and tank, then aged for ten months in neutral Atelier Centre Medium Toast and François Frères barrels. The wine shows a ripe, rich-fruited intensity with real muscularity—a savory streak of charcuterie and olive tapenade running beneath the ripe cherry and candied-cherry fruit. Fragrant cedarwood spice lifts the aromatics, and the palate finishes long with a mineral edge. A deeply savory expression in 2023.

The Lombardi Russian River Valley Chardonnay is sourced entirely from Baer Vineyard in 2023. It’s fully barrel-fermented in French oak and aged for ten months in a mix of 65% Atelier and François Frères barrels and 35% stainless-steel drums. The wine is focused and precise, with citrus and white-flower aromatics, candied quince, and pretty cedarwood notes. Crisp and tension-driven on the medium-bodied palate.
This 2023 Pinot Noir comes from Baer Vineyard. Clones 2A, 115, 667, and Pommard were fermented in stainless steel and aged for 10 months in a 38-hectoliter cask. It opens with a deeply savory nose—black olives, saddle leather, loamy earth, dried rose petals, and espresso bean. The palate shifts toward spiced plums and cherry fruit, carried by a savory mineral thread that lingers on the long finish.

Longboard’s 2023 Russian River Valley Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay is 100% Clone 76, native fermented, and aged on the lees for six months before being bottled unfined. It’s noticeably crisper and more fruit-driven than the 2024 vintage, offering bright notes of lemon, lemon peel, lime blossom, tangerine oil, and chamomile. Like the 2024, it’s full-bodied and full-flavored, brimming with lemon curd and tropical fruit, showing fine concentration and balance. A lingering thread of salinity and subtle toasty oak spice rounds out the finish.
Fermented and aged in stainless steel, concrete egg and neutral French oak, this wine was aged sur lees and did not undergo malolactic fermentation. As such, it is super bright and zesty, though you’d be hard-pressed to guess there’s no malo, as it shows real richness and depth — perhaps thanks to the Old Wente clones. Citrus fruit, white flowers, beeswax and vanilla unfold with great length and lovely wet-stone mineral tension. Really lovely.
MacLaren’s Pinot Noir is sourced from three vineyards in the Russian River Valley. Predominantly Clone 667, blended with small amounts of Calera and Pommard, the wine was fermented with native yeast and aged for 12 months in 100% neutral French oak. It’s a textural wine, shifting from velvety to slightly granular, with notes of cherry cola, fine cedarwood, and redwood forest floor—loamy earth and red bark giving it a brighter kind of earthy complexity that will be instantly familiar to anyone who’s hiked through Marin County or Muir Woods. Founded in 2007, MacLaren, a family-owned boutique winery, produces less than 1,500 cases per year. Winemaker Steve Law, inspired by his time in France, sources fruit from Russian River Valley and Bennett Valley vineyards.

This 100% Chardonnay was made with native yeasts, whole-cluster pressed, and aged for 19 months in 20% new French oak. Sourced from Lorenzo Vineyard—a site planted in 1973 and renowned for its naturally rich fruit, minerality, and vibrant acidity—the wine is generous and toasty, with a creamy, buttery texture. Wet stone minerality provides restraint and lift on the palate before the wine builds again in intensity, finishing long and bold with lingering notes of butterscotch. Founded in 2021, Marchelle is a collaboration between winemaker Greg La Follette and co-founder Kevin Lee (a Silicon Valley brand builder turned vintner), named in honor of their wives (Mara and Michelle).
This was my personal favorite of the Nid Tissé wines from 2023 that I sampled. I love the Russian River Valley richness it exudes — richness balanced by real tension. Beautifully pure and attractive lemon notes appear in all forms: lemon peel, meringue and lemon tart. A subtle kiss of toasty cedarwood mingles with all that bright citrus, interwoven with ripe orchard fruit on the palate. A long, chalky mineral finish brings everything into focus. Sourced from the famous Bacigalupi Vineyard — a site of red clay and rocky loam gravels — this Wente field selection comes from the Judgement of Paris Block. It is native-fermented with full malo and aged for 12 months in 14% new French oak, 20% clay egg, and a further three months in stainless steel before bottling.
The 2023 Chardonnay comes from Peters Vineyard, located just west of Sebastopol in the Russian River Valley. Barrel-fermented and aged for 11 months in 50% new French oak, it’s a richly expressive yet balanced wine. Bright acidity keeps the richer aromas and flavors—lemon, lemon curd, fennel seed, vanilla, and buttered croissant—lively and fresh. The creamy mid-palate tapers into a bone-dry finish with a lingering toasty oak note that’s undeniably sumptuous. Owned by Renae Perry and Ben and Yolanda Papapietro, and located in Healdsburg, Papapietro Perry Winery specializes in small-lot wines, sourced via long-held relationships with a handful of top local growers.
A mix of Hyde-Wente, Robert Young, and Rued clones, this 100% Chardonnay was aged for 17 months on primary lees in Burgundian French oak barrels, 22% of which were new. It’s a beautifully rich, finely balanced Chardonnay with a silky, satiny texture and deeply layered flavors of lemon, brown butter, and lemon pastry. Elegant oak notes are seamlessly integrated, creating a harmonious and boldly expressive wine that’s an absolute joy to drink. James Hall of Patz & Hall has over 35 years of experience working with some of California’s most acclaimed grape growers, focusing on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Wohler Vineyard in Forestville sources this red, a site that sits in the heart of Russian River Valley, within sight of the Russian River and the historic Wohler Bridge. Blocks of clones 667 and 828 occupy the highest, best-draining parts of the property, while the Wädenswil 2A clone is planted in lower sections where the soils contain more clay. The fruit was entirely destemmed, native fermented in open-top tanks, and aged in 50% new French oak. This is classic Russian River Valley Pinot Noir—full-bodied and ripe-fruited, layering cherry, fig, and plum with bay laurel and mint, a pop of dark chocolate, and cola spice. A creamy core drives the wine toward a zesty, energetic finish. Founded in 2001 by two friends with a common love of Burgundy wines, Sojourn specializes in hand-crafted Pinot Noir, while also producing Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Rosé and Sparkling wines. Winemaking duties are headed by Erich Bradley.

The Alana Vineyard, planted to Wente clones in the Russian River Valley, yields fruit of exceptional quality. Aged for 14 months in 100% French oak, 20% new, this exquisite Chardonnay is limited to just 145 cases. It displays ripe apple, pear, and apricot fruit drizzled with lemon cream and layered over crushed almonds. Full-flavored yet medium-bodied, it’s deeply enticing, with penetrating layers of flavor and crisp, citrusy acidity driving an enduring finish. Add in perfectly balanced oak spice, and you’ve got one heck of a white wine. Three Sticks Wines is a boutique, family-owned winery recognized for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Proprietor Bill Price III (nicknamed “Billy Three Sticks”) owns six vineyards in Sonoma County (including three Heritage vineyards: Durell, Gap’s Crown, and Walala).
This 100% Chardonnay is sourced from Jim Pratt’s Vine Hill Vineyard and composed of Robert Young, 70, and Mt. Eden clones. Aged for 14 months sur lie in 100% French oak (33% new), it’s a dynamic, tropical-fruited, and lavishly textured Chardonnay framed by fine-boned acidity. Layers of preserved Meyer lemon, dried apricot, and dried pineapple unfold with hints of mango, white peach, acacia flower honey, and crystallized ginger, all flowing through the full-bodied, lingering finish. James and Kerry MacPhail started Tongue Dancer as a personal brand in 2012. All of their wines are produced in their winery built (in 2008) on their 1-acre property in Healdsburg.
There’s nothing not to love about this 100% Pinot Noir sourced from Vineyard Eleven, planted entirely to the UV-VR clone and aged for 11 months sur lie in 100% French oak, 33% new. The wine is lively and bright, framed by crunchy apple-skin tannins and blood orange acidity, yet balanced by a creamy core. Aromas and flavors of cherry, applewood smoke, clove, and Earl Grey tea unfold with lavish complexity, finishing long with a subtle sprinkling of white pepper. James and Kerry MacPhail started Tongue Dancer as a personal brand in 2012. All of their wines are produced in their winery built (in 2008) on their 1-acre property in Healdsburg.

It offers that classic David Ramey Chardonnay profile, with a crisp, bright, and vivid personality. Lemon peel and fresh citrus notes are layered with subtle, gorgeous cedarwood accents, sea spray, and intense mineral character. The wine is lush yet cool, showing lovely candied ginger and quince, carried by saline-laced acid tension and lingering white floral notes. Long and delicious, it’s made for rich, fatty seafood—broiled lobster is heaven with this.
All estate fruit from Tom Rochioli. There’s a wonderfully lush, creamy richness here, underscored by very pretty, lacy acidity. Notes of lemon oil and a creamy center are layered with wildflower honey and gorgeous French pastry nuances. It’s delicious on a stick—haha. Absolutely long and layered. Pair it with whole roasted goose or turkey thighs—unctuous, with crisp, crunchy fat—or roast chicken in a mushroom sauce. Anything poultry, really. Pheasant for sure: the gaminess of the bird and the richness of this Chardonnay will crush your soul with goodness.
Two blocks at Bacigalupi’s Frost Ranch comprise this 2023 Pinot Noir: the Wente selection, picked two weeks later than in 2022, and the Pommard block, picked in October. The wine aged ten months in French oak barrels (33% new). It’s dark-fruited, with the ripe cherry appeal so prevalent in wines from this stretch of the Russian River Valley, brightened by orange peel and grapefruit zest. Cola nut fills in the gaps, joined by the creamy richness of the fruit and muscular tannins that form a solid foundation for this delectable wine. Vaughn Duffy is a small, family-owned winery based in Sonoma County producing about 3,000 cases annually and specializing in Pinot Noir. The wines are crafted by forklift-wiz-turned-winemaker Matt Duffy, who co-founded the winery in 2009 with his wife, Sara Vaughn.

Bold and dark-fruited, with briary cherry fruit, cherry-wood smoke, incense, and blood orange on the nose, all carrying through to the medium-bodied palate. Crisp tannins support a bulwark of brown baking-spice character, balancing the drying structure with a sweeter finish marked especially by ripe cherry fruit. Quite nice. This marks the winery’s 12th vintage of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. The 2023 bottling is a blend of two vineyards in the northern part of the AVA: Baer Vineyard (60%) and Bacigalupi (40%). The sites sit less than a mile apart, bordered by Westside Road to the west and the Russian River to the east. The clonal makeup includes Pommard, 115, 667, and 777. Vaughn Duffy is a small, family-owned Sonoma County winery producing about 3,000 cases annually and specializing in Pinot Noir. The wines are crafted by forklift-wiz-turned-winemaker Matt Duffy, who co-founded the winery in 2009 with his wife, Sara Vaughn.

This 100% Pinot Noir comes from Allen Vineyard and was aged for 16 months in 53% new French oak, 47% one-year-old barrels. Allen Vineyard, owned by Howard Allen, sits on gravelly hills along Westside Road and for decades provided fruit for Williams Selyem (and is where the Williams Selyem winery lived for most of its life until 2024). The wine is deeply layered, offering a beautifully expressive core of red fruit framed by warm spices and elegant cedarwood accents. Delicate, finely-tuned tannins add structure without heaviness, suggesting poise and potential longevity. With its balance of richness and restraint, this Pinot has the bones to age gracefully — best enjoyed beginning around 2027.

This 100% Pinot Noir is sourced from Bucher Vineyard and was aged for 16 months in 63% new French oak and 37% one-year-old barrels. The original vines were planted in the early 1990s, and Jeff Mangahas began working with the fruit in the early 2000s (he also helped develop the vineyard, refining the spacing and selecting new clonal material). This bottling comes from heritage clones planted in 2011. The wine is built on rich raspberry fruit, loamy earth and an intense, exotic earthiness. There’s even a shiitake mushroom essence and a raw, underbrush, grassy-leather quality, all wrapped around deep berry concentration on the palate. Beautifully grippy intensity carries the finish, which resolves with an unctuous, delicious richness. The balance between primary fruit and deep earthy spice is exceptional.

This vineyard is one of the key components in the Eastside Road Neighbors bottling. This 100% Pinot Noir is sourced from Calegari Vineyard and was aged for 16 months in 63% new French oak and 37% one-year-old barrels. The plant material here includes Dijon 115—which has thicker skins—as well as Swan and Mt. Eden heritage clones. The wine delivers explosive red-fruit character: cranberry, cherry and rose petals, all lifted by warm brown baking spices. Full-bodied richness is balanced by a vivid saline–citrus acid tension that frames this youthfully exuberant wine. That salty mineral edge comes directly from this gravelly site. The finish is highly expressive and super floral, anchoring the aromatics while showcasing great fruit depth on the palate. What a wine.

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The 2022 Woodenhead Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley is unfined and unfiltered, revealing a savory, spice-driven expression of Pinot Noir redolent of cherry fruit wrapped in eucalyptus leaves, with Earl Grey tea nuances framing the medium-bodied palate. Black tea–like tannins add structure, leading to a punctuated, lingering finish. Those savory elements are beautifully integrated and make this an ideal pairing for herb-dusted pork loin, spare ribs, or grilled branzino. Enjoy now through 2029.

This is a co-fermented field blend of 11 different varieties from the two 1921 blocks planted at Aperture Estate — small blocks totaling under 8 acres. It’s treated like a Burgundian variety, picked early to accentuate ripeness and given a large saignée (30%) to concentrate the tannins. Aged 16 months in 30% new French oak, all in large 70-gallon barrels. There’s something wonderfully savory happening here. There’s Zinfandel, Petit Verdot, Carignan, some mixed whites, and cross-bred Petite Sirah selections (Pellier/Syrah), all coming together to build a meaty richness in the glass. Dark berry fruit, rich herbal-spice notes, violets, saddle leather, and black olive drive the aromatics. The tannins are firm yet velvety, supporting a full-bodied richness that finishes with creamy caramel accents and a stony mineral edge.

From the renowned Kanzler Vineyard, the 2023 Pinot Noir bursts with vivid freshness and tension, offering bright notes of ruby red grapefruit, blood orange, and savory sage. Aromatics of anise, mint, rose petal, and rose stem lend complexity and lift, while crisp, woody tannins provide structure. Juicy, spicy acidity laced with saline and pine forest character underscores the wine’s impeccable grip and precision. Compared to the softer, more supple 2022 vintage, the 2023 is taut and energetic, built for longevity. Enjoy the generosity of the 2022s now—by the boatload—while the 2023s continue to evolve toward their full potential.

The Bacigalupi Vineyard is planted entirely to Old Wente clone, making it an easy sourcing choice for Kenneth. He notes that the site is warmer and typically the first fruit to come in—sometimes as early as late August. In 2023, he was especially pleased with the results, having picked a bit earlier. The fruit was pressed in the crush, using whole clusters with multiple press cycles, followed by a barrel selection of the native-fermented wine, which was aged for 15 months in 25–30% new French oak. The wine shows lovely, bright lemon-driven aromatics with excellent weight and tension. There’s perhaps a hint of lychee, but the profile is predominantly saline, layered with rich lemon and lime notes. Crisp orchard fruit carries through the palate, finishing long and expressive with loads of saline mineral character and vibrant freshness.
Labyrinth Vineyard lies near the town of Forestville and is planted entirely to Pommard clone, organically farmed with tight vine spacing and low yields achieved through careful thinning. The wine builds in the glass with classic Pommard character—rich cherry and spiced plum fruit layered with deep, woodsy, almost truffle-like notes and loamy earth tones. Dark cherry flavors carry across the palate, joined by earthy humus nuances in a full-bodied wine with a rich mid-palate and exceptional length. I love this wine—it’s so delicious and full-flavored.

From Manzana Vineyard, planted to Clones 777 and 828, and blended together. The site sits off Occidental Road, a hillside parcel close to Kanzler. The nose is elegant and expressive — cherry fruit, sagebrush, bay laurel — like walking in a cool Redwood grove — all building into medium richness with sweet baking spices woven around dark cherry and raspberry. Medium-bodied, with velvety tannins and a touch of cola root, plus lovely ironstone and earthy minerality and a hint of black-truffle charcuterie on the finish. Bâtonnage begins with more frequent stirring and gradually tapers off, after which the wine is racked into roughly 35–45% new French oak for 15 months. Bottled unfiltered and unfined.

From the Sexton Valley Vineyard in the Sebastopol Hills, this Chardonnay is whole-cluster pressed, undergoes partial malolactic fermentation, and is aged entirely in stainless steel. The result is a bright, energetic wine that’s light on its feet yet full of character. Aromas of lemon oil, lemon zest, and white flowers lead to a palate brimming with tangerine peel, crunchy kumquat skin, and vibrant acidity. The finish lingers with stony, wet minerality and subtle notes of lemon curd.
Winemaker Anne Moller-Racke has worked with this fruit since 2013. She doesn’t put it through malolactic fermentation—she likes acid. She gets around four tons of a single clone and uses Montrachet plus another yeast to layer in freshness and a touch of reductive edge, with partial fermentation in concrete and one-third in new French oak. Absolutely drop-dead gorgeous Chardonnay. It’s bright, vivid, electric—full of sea-spray minerality, cool wet river stones, crushed Marcona almonds, and white-flower notes, lifted by tangerine peel and lemon verbena freshness. It’s so layered and captivating. The wine is stirred early and left on primary lees until bottling, adding fantastic baking-spice depth framed by crisp, crunchy acidity.
From Laceroni Vineyard—situated in the far-southwestern reaches of the Russian River Valley near Graton and spanning roughly 45 acres on classic, well-draining Goldridge sandy loam—comes a more structured and grippier expression of RRV Pinot Noir. The site’s softly rolling hills and coastal influence help produce fruit of refined ripeness: crisp, crunchy and beautifully poised. That energy carries straight onto the palate, where apple-skin tannins and notable textural grip give the wine tension and shape. Subtle brown baking spices and flinty wet-stone minerality add further dimension, supporting the elegant red-berry profile without overwhelming it. Quite a lovely wine with genuine cellar-worthy capability.

What a wonderfully pure Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, bursting with juicy, ripe red cherry, cranberry and strawberry fruit. It leans into cherry compote and warm baking spices, yet all that lush, creamy Russian River fruit is kept beautifully in check by cool acid tension. Textural grip—like biting into a ripe red apple and feeling the pull of the skin—adds dimension, underscored by slick espresso-bean oil, blood-orange or tangerine peel and a touch of smoky, flinty minerality. Super complex and inviting.

From the Zio Tony Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. A combination of the Elite Clone selection and Clone 667 planted on Goldridge soils, which impart naturally low pH and help the wines retain their freshness. Anne Moller-Racke believes the Elite Clone, in particular, holds its natural acidity beautifully — and this wine proves the point. This is an acid-driven Pinot Noir with a sea-spray minerality on the nose, ripe red berry fruit, warm baking spices, and a touch of strawberry compote mingling with elegant cedarwood spice. Very dry, focused, and precise — not the typical lush RRV style, but a more linear, tension-filled expression.

Sourced from Bell Summe Vineyard and Martinelli Zia Gia Vineyard. Native ferments, aged 12 months sur lie in 30% new French oak from Marcel Cadet, Tonnellerie Ô, and François Frères. Unfined and Unfiltered. The Bell Summe vineyard is pronounced like “Yummy”, and this wine blends Old Wente Clone with Montrachet Clone from Martinelli’s Zio Gia Vineyard. In the glass, it shows a bold, yummy richness and a sleek texture. Ripe orchard fruit mingles with candied lemon peel, while slick tangerine oil is brightened by oyster shell minerality. A firm spine of acidity helps support all that generous character, coming into focus on the leaner, focused finish. 107 cases produced ($100)
This wine carries the energy and finesse of the 2023 vintage. Bright and expressive with a coiled-up sense of energy. Pure black cherry and blackberry fruit are dusted with cocoa powder. Wound up, exuberant, and in need of some time in the bottle for the tannin to fully knit together. So, best to pop corks after 2027 when the wine exhibits its more unctuous self. Vineyard sources include: Kanzler, Schell Estate, Little Boot, and Heintz. Roughly one-third is whole-cluster fermented with native yeast in open-top tanks, aged for 16 months in fine French oak. ($125) 14.2% alcohol.

“We’re aiming for a Montrachet or Meursault style,” says Michael Browne—and this gets remarkably close. It’s electric on the palate, driven by terrific salinity and a fantastic, saline-acid grip. Lemony brightness cuts through layers of crushed Marcona almonds, green apple, and crunchy pear. There’s wonderful weight and richness, yet it stays precise, focused, and energetic throughout—totally vibrant and full of tension. That juicy acidity settles on the palate the way a good Montrachet does, but with its own lively edge. Wente clone; 12 months in concrete followed by 3 months in stainless steel, then 15 months in 38% new French oak barrels.
Hitting all the classic Russian River Valley markers, this opens with a deep baseline of dark berry fruit, cola spices, cocoa powder, and blood-orange richness. There’s wonderful freshness throughout, with juicy dark berry flavors and fine cedarwood spice. Crisp, crunchy red berry notes layer seamlessly with clove and warm baking spices. This is Michael Browne’s 29th vintage, and it’s one you’ll want to hold and revisit many times over. Clones: Pommard, 667, 777, 828, 115, Mt. Eden, 23, and Swan. Aged 15 months in 45% new French oak, 18% once-used French oak, and 33% neutral French oak.

Michael Browne’s 2023 CIRQ is absolute dynamite. It’s super complex and ultra-delicious—about as satisfying as watching your kid’s soccer team crush the other side in penalty kicks to win the championship. It’s as electric as the first time you rode in someone’s Aston Martin—and as enviable as you felt toward the owner. If you own the Aston Martin, this wine deserves a permanent spot in the glove compartment. If you drive a Honda Insight Hybrid like me (my first car after leaving NYC, still going strong), you need this wine to remind you of the better things in life. Now, onto the wine: 2023 is a sleeper vintage. This is Sonoma perfection for Michael Browne—his ripe, lusher, full-flavored, fruit-forward style, but with the structure to age gracefully for years. It’s a high-wire act, balancing fabulously ripe, crunchy red berry fruit and spice with elegant cedarwood notes and a pine-forest freshness that glides across the palate like perfectly smooth wet slate. Coiled, energetic, and full of tension, it delivers gorgeous, pure red and black fruit character with plenty of structure to go the distance.

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