The Latest Cristaldi Scores
Vintage
Wine
Color
Rating
Vintage
Wine
Color
Rating
A friend in the tasting room remarked that this is the kind of wine you’d expect to see poured by the glass at a Michelin three-star like Single Thread. It has a liqueurous, wonderfully rich texture—extremely deep and penetrating on the mid-palate—with uber-ripe pear and apple fruit, almost like poached pear, accented by white florals, crushed almonds, sea salt, and chalky mineral tension. The length is extraordinary—stretching from the tasting room in Healdsburg clear down to the Golden Gate Bridge—and along the way you experience the landscape itself: rolling hills of orchard fruit, wind, fog, and sunshine, all encapsulated in the glass. Try as you might, you will finish this bottle. Sources include vineyards in the Green Valley and Petaluma Gap sub-AVAs, along with Marine Layer Vineyard in the Sebastopol Hills. Native fermentation; 100% malolactic; gentle lees stirring once per month. Aged 11 months, unfined and lightly filtered.
Expressive orchard fruit lifts from the glass in this single-vineyard Hawk Hill Chardonnay from the Sonoma Coast. It’s almost impossible not to swallow—it vibrates with energy and tension the moment it hits the palate, in a way that’s unmatched by many Chardonnays from this region. While it reflects a stylistic shift taking hold here, this wine is refined, lively, bright, and focused. Citrus spray, apple, and pear fruit come through, with even a touch of apple-skin tannin, but what makes it so crushable is the salinity. It’s like liquified Pink Himalayan sea salt—super expressive and monumentally delicious. The vineyard is “nestled in the confluence of the Green Valley and Freestone sub-AVA’s, where Salmon Creek and Russian River watershed meet,” according to Marine Layer’s technical sheet. Grapes are whole cluster direct to press and cold settled overnight. Ferments in concrete egg and neutral oak puncheon. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation. Some lees stirring, and aged 11 months, bottled unfined and lightly filtered.
The Buena Suerte Vineyard in the Texas High Plains, planted on Patricia and Amarillo loamy fine sands, supplies the Mourvèdre for this 2022 release. My favourite of the four Portree Cellars reds I sampled from the 2022 vintage, it is ripe and red-fruit driven, with nicely integrated cedarwood spice. Full-bodied, with round, supple tannins, it brims with juicy dark-berry fruit, loamy earth, dried sage, paprika and a fine sprinkling of cocoa powder on the long, saline finish. A wine to drink all night long — ideally paired with brisket, pulled pork or beer-can chicken rubbed with smoked paprika.
Malbec sourced from the 1,040-acre Lahey Vineyard in Portree Cellar’s hands is high-toned, floral-driven, with mixed berry fruit, cedar spices, and dried sage. Medium-bodied with sinewy tannins, a hint of fig paste layers itself under that mixed berry fruit character, and high-toned acidity keeps everything light and fresh on the finish.
Sourced from Timmons Estate, an 18-acre vineyard in Lubbock County, Texas High Plains — purchased by several Texas wineries including Lost Draw Cellars and William Chris Vineyards — where vines are rooted in sandy-loam soils. Portree’s Tempranillo from this site opens with ripe red-berry fruit before segueing into an intensely savoury profile, with prairie grass, green olives and lavender. The juicy ruby-red fruit is framed by grippy acidity, finishing with rose-petal florals and grapefruit zest.
Portree’s Touriga Nacional from the Phillips Vineyard in the Texas High Plains leaps out of the glass with surprising florality, red berries, and tropical fruit like guava and passion fruit, with underpinnings of cinnamon spices and a building depth of dark cherry fruit and raspberry fruit, and exotic florals with high-toned acid tension on the finish. Not exactly what you’d expect from a red, and a little sharp on the finish, but if you’re making Sangria, I’d buy this by the case-load. Keep following this producer and see how the 2023 release turns out.
Fresh, inviting and layered, this rosé soars from the glass with blue fruit, cherry, orange peel and a hint of cocoa powder — an intriguingly unexpected touch. Luscious on the palate, it brims with rich blue-fruit compote, candied violets and a long saline-acid finish. One hell of a rosé, best served well chilled and enviably suited to year-round enjoyment. Sourced entirely from Phillips Vineyard in the Texas High Plains, where vines are rooted in sandy-loam soils over a caliche limestone base.
Bright and citrusy, with a salty sea-spray quality that takes hold on the palate and carries through the extended finish. Along the way, crisp, crunchy citrus and orchard fruit mingle with layers of white flowers and chalky minerality. A complex Picpoul Blanc, best enjoyed with a salad, crispy chicken tacos or pulled pork. Sourced entirely from Phillips Vineyard in the Texas High Plains, where vines are rooted in sandy-loam soils over a caliche limestone base.
The 2024 Ducks Unlimited Red Blend is simply fantastic. It’s a powerhouse, and one of the best red wines I’ve tasted from Texas. The aromatics just soar out of the glass with blackberry and boysenberry fruit framed by elegant cedarwood spice, lifted by violets and a bright pop of blue fruit. Medium to full-bodied, it shows a framework of fine-grained, firm tannins with a long finish marked by wet slate and crushed rock minerality, underscored by crisp, focused acidity. Serve it cool, at a cellar temperature of about 57°F, and you’d be crazy not to pair it with brisket or seared duck breast over a balsamic reduction. The blend is 62% Tannat from Vintage Press Vineyard and Hye Estate, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot from Dell Valley Vineyard.
The 2021 Estate Dry Riesling opens with vivid orchard fruit, slivered almonds, apricot, and daffodil, layered with a subtle hint of honeycomb. A racy acid backbone and pronounced wet slate minerality drive the wine’s energy. Hand-harvested with shears and field-sorted, the fruit was whole-cluster pressed and fermented with 100% native yeast. The wine was aged with 95% fermented in stainless steel and 5% in a 500L neutral French oak barrel. Sourced from the Seneca Lake AVA in New York’s Finger Lakes, the vines grow on steep to very steep western-facing slopes of up to 55%, rooted in blue slate, glacial till, limestone, and glacial shale.
The 2022 vintage is a bit richer and broader on the palate than the 2021, delivering consistent aromas and flavors of wet slate minerality, a panoply of white and yellow wildflowers, a touch of honeycomb or beeswax, and an expressive kumquat character. Salty-savory acidity and a stark mineral drive frame the wine, while the floral notes shine brightly on the extended finish. Bone-dry, electric, and a real joy to sip.
In contrast to the 2021 and 2022 vintages, the 2023 Estate Dry Riesling is driven by tropical fruit, opening with mango and pineapple before unfolding into white peach, pear, and yellow apple. The wine is intensely fruit-forward, but it’s all crunchy fruit rather than fleshy, carried by a spine of zippy acidity that brings its own crisp bite. The long finish reveals savory notes of herbed almonds and bright sea spray, underscored by a distinct saline edge.
The North Ravine bottling of Paul Hobbs’ Estate Dry Riesling from Hillick & Hobbs, his winery on Seneca Lake in New York’s Finger Lakes region, is a dynamic and expressive white wine that bursts from the glass with jasmine and honeysuckle florals. It’s like springtime in a glass—open it in the dead of winter and you’ll be transported to sunnier, warmer days. On the palate, there’s a sense of warmth and generosity layered over cool notes of wet slate, sea spray minerality, and crunchy orchard fruit. A subtle mix of muddled honey and lemon adds depth and dimension. The floral notes carry through to a wonderfully lengthy finish, making it irresistible sip after sip.
Even before the first swirl, the 2024 Hillick & Hobbs Lower Terrace Estate Dry Riesling releases floral aromas that lift from the glass—super-fragrant, high-toned honeysuckle, jasmine, and acacia, with a delicate touch of rosemary blossom. On the palate, a supple silkiness resonates through the mid-palate before giving way to a chalky mineral finish accented by crushed almonds and emerging tropical fruit notes of peach and underripe mango. The finish is almost slippery, making this an all-too-easy quaffer.
The 2024 Estate Dry Riesling is an exceptionally polished wine. It opens with a flinty, almost reductive edge, layered with beeswax, lime blossom, apricot, pear, and crunchy red apple over a soft, fleshy core. Despite its impression of sweetness, the wine is bone-dry, acid-driven, and remarkably long on the medium-bodied finish. Tasting it professionally, I found myself swallowing small sips just to be sure I loved it as much as I knew I did. You will too—it’s simply irresistible. Native yeast fermented in stainless steel. It is the most complete of the Estate Dry Riesling wines I tasted, and a remarkable effort from Hobb’s New York State winery.
This blend of 47% Mourvèdre, 24% Syrah, 22% Petite Sirah, and 6% Grenache hails from Thompson Vineyard, planted in the late 1980s on the slopes of Alisos Canyon in the Los Alamos Valley, where own-rooted vines grow in sandy loam soils under cooler conditions. I first discovered these wines while tasting through a bevy of producers for my recent report on Santa Barbara County, and they are true standouts. The bouquet alone is remarkably enticing—dark cherries, Luxardo cherry, a dusting of white pepper, and a meaty, golden-honeyed barbecue note. The medium-bodied palate is gorgeously layered, with a core of juicy, crunchy cherry, raspberry, and pomegranate fruit complemented by cocoa-powder tannins. Super fine in structure, it’s framed by grippy, mouthwatering, zesty acidity. At 13.6% alcohol, the wine is precise, energetic, and elegant. Only 114 cases were produced—just over four barrels—bottled unfiltered. A wine club–only release, so be smart and get on the list.
This blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre comes from Thompson Vineyard, planted in the late 1980s and long renowned for Syrah. Situated on the slopes of Alisos Canyon in the Los Alamos Valley, the own-rooted vines grow in sandy loam soils under cooler conditions. The vibrant floral lift of the Syrah mingles with the juicy red berry fruitiness of the Grenache, while the Mourvèdre contributes brown spice and a firm tannic backbone. There’s a wonderful meatiness to this Rhône blend, along with rich coffee bean aromatics, tangerine peel, and a touch of cocoa powder, all framed by blood orange acidity that keeps everything lively and fresh. The long finish reveals subtle cigar box and loamy earth accents. Just 87 cases produced. Bottled unfiltered. A wine club-only wine.
This Estate Grenache comes from Thompson Vineyard, planted in the late 1980s and situated on the slopes of Alisos Canyon in the Los Alamos Valley, where own-rooted vines grow in sandy loam soils under cooler conditions. According to the winery, this bottling was “sourced entirely from ‘Michael’s Block,’ a sélection massale of old wild vines situated on the eastern half of our estate vineyard in shaley loam soils with slightly cooler and less direct sun exposure.” What I can add is that it’s a profoundly layered wine, with beautifully fine, almost sandy tannins—like pure fine-grained beach sand—supporting a supple, medium- to full-bodied red that’s elegantly perfumed with sweet rose petals, cocoa powder, vanilla, and cedar. Ruby-red grapefruit notes emerge on the palate, adding an unbeatable freshness factor. The wine is absolutely riveting, with a deep core of dark berry fruit, traces of blue fruit compote, violets, lifted ground espresso, and exotic peach and apricot nuances, all bolstered by generous slate-stone minerality. I discovered these wines while tasting through a bevy of producers for my recent report on Santa Barbara County, and they are true standouts. But here’s the bad news: only 49 cases were produced—just under two barrels—and it’s available exclusively to wine club members. So do the right thing: get in with the Dovecote club. Grenache lovers do not want to miss this.
This 2024 Dovecote Estate Grenache Blanc from the Thompson Vineyard in Alisos Canyon, crafted in a limited run of just 52 cases, is a beautifully fragrant and vivid expression. On the nose, it’s lemon-bright and citrus-driven, layered with delicate white flowers and subtle orchard fruit with cherry pit and white plum nuances. On the palate, the wine unfolds into a lush core of silky citrus and orchard fruit notes, accented by hints of tropical fruit and a whisper of crushed almonds. It has an incredible textural grip, almost a chalky, saline acid tension that lends the wine a compelling mineral-driven finish. Think wet river stones and a beautifully lingering chalkiness that makes each sip memorable.
The 2024 Dovecote Estate Chardonnay from Thompson Vineyard in Alisos Canyon, a limited release of just 54 cases, is a stunning example of California Chardonnay that combines richness with real elegance. On the nose, it opens with that classic toasty, buttery brioche character—think a freshly baked, crispy brioche straight from the farmer’s market—along with layers of Meyer lemon and baked apple. On the palate, all those flavors come together seamlessly, balanced by a bright, lemony acidity. There’s a beautiful textural grip and a crushed sea salt impression that leaves your mouth watering, complemented by nuances of apricots, crushed Marcona almonds, and pressed wildflowers. It’s a remarkable wine with great depth, tension, and a saline, mineral-driven length that will resonate with any lover of beautifully balanced California Chardonnay.
