Cristaldi Scores

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Olivier Bonville of Champagne Franck Bonville (based in Avize) and stepson Ferdinand Ruelle are exploring the 319 Champagne villages. The ‘Jour 2’ (‘Day 2’) takes us to Le Couchant, north of Avize. 100% Chardonnay. Compact, mind-bogglingly complex. Exquisite fine beading is persistent. Savory, mineral-kissed, loaded with orchard fruits, mulberry, cherry, black truffle, and sous bois nuances—incredible.
Clean and expressive, this 2015 vintage-dated sparkling wine opens with lifted aromas of orchard and stone fruit, accented by hints of almond and white flowers. The mousse is assertive and creamy, building on the palate with toasty brioche notes. Excellent mid-palate concentration and a long, acid-driven finish underscore its remarkable freshness and vitality, even after extended time on the lees. The fruit was sourced from estate vineyards on the west side of Seneca Lake: 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay.
Barrel-aged for an impressive 76 months in French oak, this bottling is the second release of 10 barrels from an old vine field blend of Merlot, Touriga Nacional, and Ruby Cabernet, bottled unfiltered. The result is a truly intriguing wine: rich with molasses character, stewed red fruit, and sweet spice notes, evoking a tawny port-like nose. These same flavors carry through on the palate, with a touch of strawberry balsamic reduction adding complexity. The tannins are still quite firm and present, building on the long, nutty finish.

This Robert Clay Sangiovese from Mandola Vineyards, which was ripped out sadly, produced from a single barrel of the 2015 vintage and aged for 65 months in French oak, presents a truly unique and intriguing rendition of the variety. At the pull of the cork, the wine is fresh and currant-driven, and builds with air into an unmistakably Port-like power, which is quite rare—and fascinating—for Sangiovese. Bone dry on the finish and with a sherry-like quality, and with more air it offers toasty nutty notes and currant fruit flavors, complemented by rich spice cake nuances. This is truly a one-of-a-kind expression of Sangiovese.

The ‘B 15 00 RCV MER’ is 100% Merlot. Fermented in picking bins, then racked into stainless steel tanks to settle before being barreled down for 26 months. It delivers rich black currant fruit and warm baking spices, with notes of spiced plum and plump, satiny tannins that glide into a long, balanced finish with just the right amount of tension.

The ‘B 15 01 RCV MTR’ hails from the 2015 vintage and represents the first two of ten barrels from an old vine field blend, aged for 76 months in 100% neutral Radoux medium+ toast French oak. This deeply expressive wine marries the lifted florals and blue fruit tones of the 2017 with the herbaceous spice and bright acidity of the 2016. Aromas of dried violet, grilled agave, and spicy currants unfold into a layered palate of tart red berries, dark cassis, and blood orange. Rich loamy earth, black truffle, and nutty undertones weave through a full-bodied frame, supported by sappy tannins and a savory, saline-tinged finish. The texture is firm yet supple, with persistent energy and depth from its extended barrel aging.

The ‘B 15 02 RCV MTR’ is the same wine as the ‘B 15 01 RCV MTR’—from the 2015 vintage and crafted from an old vine field blend—aged instead for an extraordinary 100 months in 100% neutral Radoux medium+ toast French oak. The currant and spiced plum fruit found in the 76-month-aged version is still present, now evolving into more tertiary territory. Notes of dusty sagebrush, loamy earth, kirsch, and crushed almonds emerge, along with spiced nuts and plenty of textural tannin to carry the wine’s weight and complexity. NOT YET RELEASED as of May 2025. Check with winery.

The ‘B 15 03 RCV MTR’ is the same wine as the ‘B 15 01 RCV MTR’—from the 2015 vintage and made from an old vine field blend—aged for an exceptional 114 months in 100% neutral Radoux medium+ toast French oak. The once-bright currant and spiced plum fruit has evolved into dried fruit and rich rum raisin cake, showing deep maturity and layered complexity. The tannins remain grippy but are finally beginning to resolve, leading to a long, spicy finish. Not yet released as of May 2025. Check with the winery for availability.

Vintage

Wine

Type

Color

Rating

$

Olivier Bonville of Champagne Franck Bonville (based in Avize) and stepson Ferdinand Ruelle are exploring the 319 Champagne villages. The ‘Jour 2’ (‘Day 2’) takes us to Le Couchant, north of Avize. 100% Chardonnay. Compact, mind-bogglingly complex. Exquisite fine beading is persistent. Savory, mineral-kissed, loaded with orchard fruits, mulberry, cherry, black truffle, and sous bois nuances—incredible.
Clean and expressive, this 2015 vintage-dated sparkling wine opens with lifted aromas of orchard and stone fruit, accented by hints of almond and white flowers. The mousse is assertive and creamy, building on the palate with toasty brioche notes. Excellent mid-palate concentration and a long, acid-driven finish underscore its remarkable freshness and vitality, even after extended time on the lees. The fruit was sourced from estate vineyards on the west side of Seneca Lake: 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay.
Barrel-aged for an impressive 76 months in French oak, this bottling is the second release of 10 barrels from an old vine field blend of Merlot, Touriga Nacional, and Ruby Cabernet, bottled unfiltered. The result is a truly intriguing wine: rich with molasses character, stewed red fruit, and sweet spice notes, evoking a tawny port-like nose. These same flavors carry through on the palate, with a touch of strawberry balsamic reduction adding complexity. The tannins are still quite firm and present, building on the long, nutty finish.

This Robert Clay Sangiovese from Mandola Vineyards, which was ripped out sadly, produced from a single barrel of the 2015 vintage and aged for 65 months in French oak, presents a truly unique and intriguing rendition of the variety. At the pull of the cork, the wine is fresh and currant-driven, and builds with air into an unmistakably Port-like power, which is quite rare—and fascinating—for Sangiovese. Bone dry on the finish and with a sherry-like quality, and with more air it offers toasty nutty notes and currant fruit flavors, complemented by rich spice cake nuances. This is truly a one-of-a-kind expression of Sangiovese.

The ‘B 15 00 RCV MER’ is 100% Merlot. Fermented in picking bins, then racked into stainless steel tanks to settle before being barreled down for 26 months. It delivers rich black currant fruit and warm baking spices, with notes of spiced plum and plump, satiny tannins that glide into a long, balanced finish with just the right amount of tension.

The ‘B 15 01 RCV MTR’ hails from the 2015 vintage and represents the first two of ten barrels from an old vine field blend, aged for 76 months in 100% neutral Radoux medium+ toast French oak. This deeply expressive wine marries the lifted florals and blue fruit tones of the 2017 with the herbaceous spice and bright acidity of the 2016. Aromas of dried violet, grilled agave, and spicy currants unfold into a layered palate of tart red berries, dark cassis, and blood orange. Rich loamy earth, black truffle, and nutty undertones weave through a full-bodied frame, supported by sappy tannins and a savory, saline-tinged finish. The texture is firm yet supple, with persistent energy and depth from its extended barrel aging.

The ‘B 15 02 RCV MTR’ is the same wine as the ‘B 15 01 RCV MTR’—from the 2015 vintage and crafted from an old vine field blend—aged instead for an extraordinary 100 months in 100% neutral Radoux medium+ toast French oak. The currant and spiced plum fruit found in the 76-month-aged version is still present, now evolving into more tertiary territory. Notes of dusty sagebrush, loamy earth, kirsch, and crushed almonds emerge, along with spiced nuts and plenty of textural tannin to carry the wine’s weight and complexity. NOT YET RELEASED as of May 2025. Check with winery.

The ‘B 15 03 RCV MTR’ is the same wine as the ‘B 15 01 RCV MTR’—from the 2015 vintage and made from an old vine field blend—aged for an exceptional 114 months in 100% neutral Radoux medium+ toast French oak. The once-bright currant and spiced plum fruit has evolved into dried fruit and rich rum raisin cake, showing deep maturity and layered complexity. The tannins remain grippy but are finally beginning to resolve, leading to a long, spicy finish. Not yet released as of May 2025. Check with the winery for availability.

Vintage

Wine

Type

Rating

$

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