Cristaldi: Texas Wine Report

After spending a week in Fredericksburg, TX, in the heart of the Texas Hill Country AVA, visiting multiple wineries and tasting over 200 wines for this report, I have a few words of wisdom to impart:

GO TO THE HILL COUNTRY. Go now. Or start planning your trip. Here’s why.

The wine scene is exploding, with over 60 grower-producers and hundreds more winery brands. Quality is on the rise, taking off like a rocket, while prices for wine and experiences remain markedly lower than those in popular regions throughout California and the Pacific Northwest.

Many of the new tasting rooms scattered along Route 290 are expansive, modern, and luxurious, with ample space to spread out and plenty of elbow room for those lining up at the tasting bar — all of it, mirroring the vast, rolling Texas terrain, its seemingly endless views, and its wide roadways which lead in every direction over the slow and steady rise and fall of unending valleys and peaks. 

My favorite time to visit is in the spring and fall, when the weather is crisp, the wind is scented with prairie grass, and the sun is bright, but tempered. Let’s go.

Why Quality Is on a Rocket Ship to Mars

The recent uptick in quality — evident in wines from the past five vintages (2019–2023 and the just-harvested 2024) — can be attributed to several factors. Growers are embracing continued education, including studies with Texas Tech University, alongside an influx of consultants and new technologies improving and streamlining the winemaking process.

Pellenc, the producer of optical grape sorters, now has a location in Brownfield, TX, near the majority of vineyards in the Texas High Plains AVA. Meanwhile, cellars are being built at a rapid pace, featuring towers of custom-built stainless steel tanks, Sonoma Cast Stone concrete eggs and vessels, and a host of large oak uprights. Barrel aging is receiving new focus, with innovations like hybrid barrels from Tonnellerie Radoux — combining French oak staves with American oak heads — showing great promise for Texas terroir.

Why the hybrid barrels? Spanish, Italian, and Portuguese grape varieties perform exceptionally well in Texas, and in Spain, American oak has traditionally been the vessel of choice for aging these varieties. And that mentality of “it’s what we’ve always done,” has led most Texan producers to age their wines in American oak. However, trial and error over the last decade has revealed that a mix of French and American oak, paired with shorter barrel aging times (16–22 months instead of 36–48 months), if not French oak entirely, produces more elegance, with structured tannins, and allows the fruit and spice character to shine. Extended time aging wine in barrel often leads to oxidative characteristics in these American-grown European varieties.

Additionally, Bordeaux and Rhône Valley grapes shine in Texas, but early standouts among reds include Tannat, Teroldego, and Souzao (pronounced “soo-ZOW”). These varieties are structured, pure, red-fruited, complex, and ageworthy. On the white wine side, Viognier, Roussanne, and Sauvignon Blanc stand out, offering a depth of fruit and a thread of salty minerality that make them irresistible.

Spurring Conversations: Talking to Texas Locals

“We are welcoming to all people. Put down your Dr Pepper and pick up a glass of wine,” says Chris Brundrett, co-founder and CEO of William Chris Vineyards, Uplift, and Lost Draw and the co-founder of Texas Wine Auction Foundation. Brundrett, a tall, even-keeled young stalwart and former board member of Texas Hill Country Wineries Association, attributes his own rapid success — and that of the region — to the clear message they communicate to consumers: the same people who grow the food you love are growing grapes to make 100% Texas-grown and produced wines. “We are working to make the world a better place and to get people thinking about where their food comes from,” he says. Brundrett enjoys asking people how their day is going and what the best part of it has been, noting that such questions “spur conversations.”

“We do make serious wines here,” says Brian Menconi, General Manager of Becker Vineyards. During our conversation, we touched on the importance of wine trade professionals — the buyers who curate wine lists for restaurants and wine shops across the country. Menconi’s message to them is clear: “Come visit. See our wineries. See our vineyards. It’s about the wine, but it’s also about the hospitality we bring. Texans have a way of welcoming people into the family like no one else.”

Menconi’s sentiment echoed throughout my visits, and I would add this advice: Pay close attention to vintages from 2021 onward. With fresh ideas, seasoned consultants from well-established wine regions, and a strong focus on improved farming and cellar practices, the quality of Texas wine is on a steep upward trajectory.

“There are so many people here who are working to grow premium-quality grapes and are passionate about sharing resources,” says Susan Johnson of Texas Heritage Vineyard. This collaboration is essential in Texas, where growers contend with extremes: scorching summer heat, harsh winters, cold spring frosts, and the ever-present threat of Pierce’s disease, hailstorms, and ravenous raccoons and deer who love to munch on grapes. Mitigating these challenges — along with carefully monitoring vine health and ripeness levels — is all part of the job for Texas winemakers.

What’s Happening:  Regions and Pricing

“We are creating regionality and understanding of what grows best here,” says John Rivenburgh, owner and winemaker at Rivenburgh Cellars and Kerrville Hills Winery. “Texas is gigantic, and we’re okay with the fact that some varieties grow well in the Hill Country but not in the High Plains. We need to highlight those regional differences.”

“These are good wines at a really good price point,” says Greg Davis, co-owner of Kalasi Cellars and the first producer in Texas to invest in a Pellenc optical grape sorter. He hopes sommeliers and wine buyers will take notice. Davis acknowledges that Texas producers haven’t yet landed on a defining theme. “There is a lot of variety — literally — in the grape options we present here,” he says. “Finding the right spot on a wine list might take a bit more creativity.” But the opportunities for discovery, surprise, and delight — and to feature high-quality Texas wines — have never been better.

Your Next Favorite Sparkling Wine Is Being Made in Texas

Surprisingly, sparkling wine production is shaping up to be a potential benchmark for Texas wine producers. With endless hours of sunshine and warmth, ripening grapes isn’t an issue. However, ripening too quickly — leading to a loss of natural acidity — is a real risk. Texas winemakers have mastered the science of acidification, skillfully blending in grape acids to achieve balance in a way that might be unmatched in the U.S.

Certain varieties, like Trebbiano, naturally achieve phenolic ripeness early. Picking grapes at this stage — when ripeness levels are optimal, but grape acids remain firm and assertive — creates the perfect foundation for sparkling wine production.

Readers, if I have one bold prediction, it’s this: over the next decade, you’ll see many dynamic, complex, and delicious sparkling wines emerging from Texas. As soon as I start receiving samples after disgorgement, I’ll be sure to update this report. 

A Sense of Place: Understanding the Texas Wine Landscape

Texas is big — 268,596 square miles, about the same size as the country of France — but the wine scene is small and brimming with growth potential, rivaling the performance prospects of some of today’s best stock portfolios.

As of this writing, Texas has eight AVAs, but two stand out as essential to know:

• Texas High Plains AVA: Located around Lubbock in the northwest part of the state, near the New Mexico border. Established 1993, this region is home to most of the state’s vineyard land — wineries, on the other hand, are mostly smack in the Texas Hill Country.
  • Vineyards are planted on a massive plateau from 2,800 to 4,000 feet above sea level. 
  • Most grapes in Texas are grown in this AVA today, which spans roughly 8 million acres (as a point of comparison, Napa Valley spans between 40,000 and 50,000 acres, with the obvious point that there is room for sub-AVA growth). 
  • Soils are mostly brown clay and sandy loams. 
  • The climate is dry and windy and vines are irrigated with water from the Ogallala Aquifer. 

• Texas Hill Country AVA: Established 1991, Roughly four hours south of Dallas-Fort Worth, four hours west of Houston, one hour west of Austin, and one hour north of San Antonio. This AVA — jam-packed with hundreds of wineries — is centered around Fredericksburg.
  • Vineyards are planted between 650 and 2,550 feet above sea level, covering the eastern two-thirds of the Edwards Plateau.
  • Most wineries in Texas are situated in this AVA, and many around Fredericksburg, TX. The AVA spans over 9 million acres (that’s the size of two Hawaiis or roughly the state of Vermont and New Hampshire combined), with plenty of room for sub-AVA growth and several new proposed AVAs already in the works.
  • Soils are a mix of complex igneous and volcanic materials, mostly limestone, sandstone, or granite, with a mix of sandy loam or clay loam, of mostly calcareous nature.
  • The climate is classified as humid sub-tropical, characterized by hot days, warm nights, and humid weather from moist winds coming off the Gulf of Mexico. 

Hotels, Resorts, Dining, and Wine Tasting

With the rapid growth of Texas wine and an influx of curious visitors from Dallas-Fort Worth, Austin, and Houston — many of whom are building weekend homes in the area — new hotels and resorts are breaking ground daily. Meanwhile, wineries are expanding their laid-back, fun, and welcoming hospitality experiences. To complement this, a burgeoning food scene is emerging, rivaling the already-famous Texas BBQ joints that dot the region.

Downtown Fredericksburg offers a nearly two-mile walking stretch along Route 290, a road reminiscent of Napa Valley’s Highway 29. This lively thoroughfare is packed with shops, coffee houses, bakeries, restaurants, and tasting rooms. The atmosphere is buzzing on weekends but more relaxed on weekdays, offering opportunities for discovery at every turn.

History enthusiasts can explore the area’s rich heritage through sites like the Lyndon B. Johnson State Park & Historic Site, the LBJ Ranch in nearby Stonewall, and LBJ’s boyhood home in Johnson City — where tasting rooms are springing up almost daily. The scene brings to mind the early days of California’s Santa Ynez Valley, the Lompoc Wine Ghetto, or the Funk Zone in downtown Santa Barbara.

Local Recommendations: Where to Eat

• Cabernet Grill 
• Hill & Vine
• Hill Country Herb Garden
• Granite House
• Casa Chloé
• Al Campania
• Prometheus

Where to Stay

• Albert Hotel (opening soon)
• The Edge
• Stonewall Motor Lodge
• Vineyard Trail Cottages
• Carter Creek Winery & Resort

What to know about growing grapes in Texas.

Texas Hill Country soils are predominantly derived from ancient limestone and dolomite, and they feature well-drained calcareous compositions that are ideal for viticulture. The area also includes sandy loam, clay, and granitic soils, particularly near the Llano Uplift. These soils, rich in minerals yet low in organic matter, stress the vines in a way that enhances grape quality, producing wines with concentrated flavors and balanced acidity. Their excellent drainage supports heat-tolerant grape varieties such as Tempranillo, Tannat, and Mourvèdre.

While some areas, like the Llano Uplift, feature Precambrian granitic soils and rocks, they are distinct from the extensive limestone formations found in places like the Hill Country and Edwards Plateau. The slight acidity of Precambrian granitic soils in Texas benefits grape-growing by promoting stress in the vines, enhancing grape quality, and helping balance acidity in the fruit despite the warm climate. However, growers must carefully manage pH and fertility to ensure optimal vine health and productivity. With proper management, these soils can produce distinctive, high-quality wines.

The Hill Country is known for its limestone, which influences the terroir of nearby AVAs, but this limestone is not derived from Precambrian granite. Most Texas limestone, such as that in the Hill Country and Edwards Plateau, is relatively young, formed primarily from the Cretaceous period (145 to 66 million years ago) sediment deposited in ancient shallow seas that once covered the region.

AVA Overview

Texas has eight American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), each with distinct soil compositions and grape varieties contributing to the state’s diverse wine production. Here’s an overview of each AVA, focusing on their soil types and notable grape varieties:

1. Texas High Plains AVA

• Soil Types: Predominantly sandy loam over caliche (limestone), with variations including brown clay loam and fine sandy loam. 
• Notable Grape Varieties: Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Viognier, and Roussanne.

2. Texas Hill Country AVA

• Soil Types: Varied; commonly clay loam and also including limestone, sand, granite, and alluvial soils.
• Notable Grape Varieties: Tannat, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Aglianico, and Syrah.

3. Texoma AVA

• Soil Types: Primarily sandy soils.
• Notable Grape Varieties: Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Grenache, and Chardonnay.

4. Mesilla Valley AVA

• Soil Types: Sandy loam and gravel.
• Notable Grape Varieties: While specific varieties are less documented, the region’s dry, arid climate supports grapes like Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Syrah, Malbec, and Gewürztraminer.

5. Escondido Valley AVA

• Soil Types: Alluvial sandy loam and gravel.
• Notable Grape Varieties: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Colombard.

6. Texas Davis Mountains AVA

• Soil Types: Granitic, porphyritic, and volcanic rocks with limestone.
  Notable Grape Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc.

7. Bell Mountain AVA

• Soil Types: Well-drained ancient granitic soils.
• Notable Grape Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties suited to the Texas Hill Country.

8. Fredericksburg in the Texas Hill Country AVA

• Soil Types: Alluvial soils with high concentrations of flint and iron-rich clay.
• Notable Grape Varieties: Similar to the broader Texas Hill Country AVA, including Tannat, Petite Sirah, Tempranillo, Aglianico, and Syrah.

(Sources:  Texas Wine Growers, General Soil Map of Texas, interviews)