KostaBrowneSonoma – Cristaldi & Co

2021

Kosta Browne

Keefer Ranch Blanc de Blancs

Picked in the second week of September, the base wine from this site is somewhat ironically among the last to come in. Made using the traditional method, unfiltered, with high lees contact, and aged en tirage in barrel for two years. Winemaker Julien Howsepian believes a shorter tirage suits his California-grown fruit, as ripeness comes naturally from the warm sunshine, while foot-treading and extended lees contact contribute the richness he wants. The wine shows wonderful depth and a saline–acid tension, with wet-stone character, bright citrus and orchard fruit, and warm baking spices adding richness through the mid-palate. The finish is long, lifted, and thoroughly enticing.

White

2023

Kosta Browne

Bootlegger’s Hill Chardonnay

Sourced entirely from Hyde clone at the Bootlegger’s Hill Vineyard, whole-cluster pressed and 100% barrel-fermented, then aged 11 months in 33% new French oak followed by 7 months in stainless steel before bottling. The nose is super rich, showing lemon curd, apple, lemon peel, candied ginger and sea-spray minerality, with a kiss of vanilla and an ultra-salty wet-slate character. Ginger spice and candied lemon peel carry onto the palate, which has excellent mid-weight richness and a long, spice-driven finish. Totally captivating and delicious—beautifully balanced.

White

2023

Kosta Browne

Bootlegger’s Hill Pinot Noir

A captivating nose of ripe cherry fruit, sagebrush, rosemary, thyme and lifted rosemary florals, with a touch of cocoa powder for added depth. The palate delivers excellent mid-palate concentration, with powdery, supple tannins—like the jelly of a doughnut, no holes here—sumptuous and fully filled out. Fermented in a mix of stainless steel, concrete and neutral oak with 6% whole cluster, then aged 16 months in 37% new French oak.

Red

2023

Kosta Browne

El Diablo Chardonnay

Whole clusters were pressed directly and the wine was 100% barrel-fermented, then aged for 12 months in 32% new French oak and a further 6 months in stainless steel before bottling. Sourced from the El Diablo Vineyard along the eastern rim of the Russian River Valley, this is a wonderfully precise white wine with tangerine oil, white peach, yellow apple and poached pear. The mid-palate is luscious, creamy and silky, revealing decadent French-pastry and buttered-croissant notes, followed by a fabulous sea-salt finish. There is more richness here than in past years—and it’s a welcome evolution. These wines are beautifully balanced; Julien Howsepian is doing excellent work.

White

2023

Kosta Browne

Gap's Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir

For readers familiar with the Three Sticks expression of Gap’s Crown, this bottling shows the other side of the flavor coin. It’s a more focused, tension-driven take on the site—less fleshy, more mineral-layered and crunchy-fruited, yet still thoroughly delicious. A creamy core remains, with panna cotta–like vanilla notes, but here it’s framed by harmonious wet-stone minerality and that signature redwood-grove and clove spice. It hits all the classic Gap’s Crown markers, but with restraint and precision. Really impressive—and quite fabulous.

Red

2023

Kosta Browne

Giusti Ranch Pinot Noir

One of the bolder, more concentrated wines in the 2023 lineup I tasted with Julien Howsepian in December 2025. It shows multidimensional acid tension that gives the wine excellent grip. Generous brown baking spices and darker fruit lend a muscular profile, while notes of dried rose petals and rosemary essence add aromatic lift. The tannins are polished and persistent on the finish.

Red

2023

Kosta Browne

Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir

Fermented in a mix of stainless steel, concrete and oak, then aged 17 months in 40% new French oak, a combination of wood cask, foudre and stainless steel, and blended just before bottling. This is a beautifully elegant wine with subtle brown spices and violets, showing pure cherry and strawberry fruit. Medium-bodied with velvety tannins, it supports all that ripe fruit, which turns darker-toned with an understated youthful poise. The length is tremendous, carrying brown baking-spice character along with candied ginger, smoked paprika and cocoa nibs on the finish.

Red

2023

Kosta Browne

One-Sixteen Chardonnay

Fermented entirely in barrel with no whole cluster and aged for 12 months in 34% new French oak. Vineyard sources include Zio Tony, Lone Oak, Ritchie, Keefer Ranch, Bootlegger’s Hill, El Diablo, Charles Ranch, and Bob’s Ranch. The wine is incredibly rich and layered, with lemon peel, fresh lemon and ripe apple mingling with toasty oak spices, candied ginger and crushed almonds. A lovely saline minerality accents the palate. Medium to full-bodied with excellent mid-palate weight, it finishes quite crisp. Subtle notes of French pastry and oyster-shell minerality weave throughout. Truly captivating.

White

2023

Kosta Browne

Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

An absolutely gorgeous, perfumed nose of rose petals and cranberry fruit lifted by warm brown baking spices. The aromatics are bold and expressive yet remain pure and incredibly fresh. The palate bursts with bright, layered, beautifully ripe fruit—cherry, raspberry and cranberry—accented by a touch of grapefruit zest, clove and allspice. A long, stony mineral note reminiscent of wet river stones carries the everlasting finish. This is totally lights-out fantastic. Sourced from exceptional vineyards including Bootlegger’s Hill, Giusti Ranch, Treehouse, Winner’s Circle, Zio Tony, Moonshine, Jenkins, Sundawg Ridge and Barron Ranch. Fermented in 55% stainless steel, 25% concrete and 20% oak, with 5% whole cluster. Aged 16 months in 40% new French oak, with some foudre and some stainless steel.

Red

2023

Kosta Browne

Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

The backbone of this wine is Gap’s Crown, blended with fruit from Marshall in the Sebastopol Hills, Pratt–Sexton, Crane Canyon, Thorn Ridge and Pepperwood. A mix of clones—667, Swan, 115, 114, 828, Dijon selections and Clone 23—fermented in stainless steel, concrete and oak, then aged 16 months in 40% new French oak. Absolutely gorgeous coastal florals lead the nose, intertwined with sea-spray minerality and wet stone. Crunchy dark berry fruit drives the palate, joined by savory spice notes reminiscent of a damp redwood grove, clove, scorched earth, tangerine peel and grapefruit zest. A subtle incense-like minerality carries through to the firm yet inviting finish.

Red

2023

Kosta Browne

Treehouse Vineyard Pinot Noir

This is your Saturday-night wine—the power broker, the one that will impress you and your guests. Bold, aromatic and richly flavored, it shows incredibly velvety tannins and a cocoa-powder softness, with dark cherry fruit, raspberry spice and pomegranate nuances. A hefty framework of apple-skin tannin adds crisp yet fluffy texture, while a firm pinch of acidity brings crunchy tension. The fruit is dark, ripe, supple and beautifully layered, balancing everything out and making for a wonderfully expressive, impeccably balanced Pinot Noir. Fermented in a mix of concrete, stainless steel, oak and whole cluster, then aged 17 months in 38% new French oak.

Cristaldi Scores

Vintage

Wine

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Vintage

Wine

Color

Rating

Kosta Browne

Keefer Ranch Blanc de Blancs

Kosta Browne

Bootlegger’s Hill Chardonnay

Kosta Browne

Bootlegger’s Hill Pinot Noir

Kosta Browne

El Diablo Chardonnay

Kosta Browne

Gap's Crown Vineyard Pinot Noir

Kosta Browne

Giusti Ranch Pinot Noir

Kosta Browne

Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir

Kosta Browne

One-Sixteen Chardonnay

Kosta Browne

Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Kosta Browne

Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Kosta Browne

Treehouse Vineyard Pinot Noir

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