Cristaldi Scores

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This wine is a conversation piece. It hums with energy and tension, and there’s a real savory component—redolent of walking through a redwood forest—that expands into medium- to full-bodied richness on the palate. Exotic spices, white pepper, clove, deep pine-forest notes, and even a touch of charcuterie weave through the aromatics. There’s more power and intensity here than in the broader Sonoma Coast bottling, as you’d expect from these single-vineyard selections. A wonderful minty freshness mingles with crushed river stones, white pepper, and intriguing umami tones. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with substantial tannins—beam-like in structure, a bit sappy, and balanced by subtle mocha. It feels broad across the palate, building with spicy, textural richness. Dense black cherry, pomegranate, spiced plums, and blood orange deliver real staying power, while the long finish brings warming brown-sugar spice, toffee, and espresso bean. Plenty of heft, balanced by excellent tension. 503 cases made. Dan Kosta’s Convene wines are aged in 30% new oak, while his elevated DK label sees closer to 50% new oak for 15 months and represents specific blocks or barrel selections from single vineyards. Campbell Ranch Vineyard in the Russian River Valley is the winery’s largest holding, planted to clones 777 and 115.

Bottled entirely in magnum (to mark it as a wine for special occasions and sharing), The Approach represents a passion project for Dan Kosta and winemaker Shane Finley—just five barrels were made in 2023. Modeled after the Kosta Browne “Four Barrel,” this blend brings together fruit from Garys’ Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, Umino and Martaella vineyards in the Russian River Valley, and Campbell Ranch on the West Sonoma Coast near Westside Road. “Is this the best five barrels in the winery?” Dan asks. “No. If you have five wonderful kids, it doesn’t mean they’ll all play well together. It’s the best blend we can make from these sites—the best wine we can create from the components we have. It’s a winemaker’s wine.” The name The Approach is also a tribute to his father, an airline pilot. “You can’t have perfection in wine,” Dan says. “If I believed you could, I’d call it The Landing. But wine is an imperfect journey, so The Approach just fits.” Given that sentiment, Dan may not agree with my 100-point assesment, but I do. I love this wine. For me, this wine isn’t about terroir as much as it is about pleasure, complexity, and the cerebral art of blending. In its youth, it’s floral and brown-spiced with dark fruit and lush texture balanced by a tactile grip. The finish is long and compelling, inviting sip after sip. Certain site components shine brightly now, like the lush, fruity aspect from Santa Lucia, balanced by the intense earthy character of the Russian River Valley, but by 2029 or so, they’ll have fully harmonized—making patience well-rewarded if you wait to pop the cork.

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Wine

Type

Color

Rating

$

This wine is a conversation piece. It hums with energy and tension, and there’s a real savory component—redolent of walking through a redwood forest—that expands into medium- to full-bodied richness on the palate. Exotic spices, white pepper, clove, deep pine-forest notes, and even a touch of charcuterie weave through the aromatics. There’s more power and intensity here than in the broader Sonoma Coast bottling, as you’d expect from these single-vineyard selections. A wonderful minty freshness mingles with crushed river stones, white pepper, and intriguing umami tones. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with substantial tannins—beam-like in structure, a bit sappy, and balanced by subtle mocha. It feels broad across the palate, building with spicy, textural richness. Dense black cherry, pomegranate, spiced plums, and blood orange deliver real staying power, while the long finish brings warming brown-sugar spice, toffee, and espresso bean. Plenty of heft, balanced by excellent tension. 503 cases made. Dan Kosta’s Convene wines are aged in 30% new oak, while his elevated DK label sees closer to 50% new oak for 15 months and represents specific blocks or barrel selections from single vineyards. Campbell Ranch Vineyard in the Russian River Valley is the winery’s largest holding, planted to clones 777 and 115.

Bottled entirely in magnum (to mark it as a wine for special occasions and sharing), The Approach represents a passion project for Dan Kosta and winemaker Shane Finley—just five barrels were made in 2023. Modeled after the Kosta Browne “Four Barrel,” this blend brings together fruit from Garys’ Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands, Umino and Martaella vineyards in the Russian River Valley, and Campbell Ranch on the West Sonoma Coast near Westside Road. “Is this the best five barrels in the winery?” Dan asks. “No. If you have five wonderful kids, it doesn’t mean they’ll all play well together. It’s the best blend we can make from these sites—the best wine we can create from the components we have. It’s a winemaker’s wine.” The name The Approach is also a tribute to his father, an airline pilot. “You can’t have perfection in wine,” Dan says. “If I believed you could, I’d call it The Landing. But wine is an imperfect journey, so The Approach just fits.” Given that sentiment, Dan may not agree with my 100-point assesment, but I do. I love this wine. For me, this wine isn’t about terroir as much as it is about pleasure, complexity, and the cerebral art of blending. In its youth, it’s floral and brown-spiced with dark fruit and lush texture balanced by a tactile grip. The finish is long and compelling, inviting sip after sip. Certain site components shine brightly now, like the lush, fruity aspect from Santa Lucia, balanced by the intense earthy character of the Russian River Valley, but by 2029 or so, they’ll have fully harmonized—making patience well-rewarded if you wait to pop the cork.

Vintage

Wine

Type

Rating

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