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Wines – Page 40 – Cristaldi & Co

Cristaldi Scores

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This Sangiovese Rosé is quite complex, with lovely cherry fruit aromatics mingling with notes of licorice and aniseed. Dried fruit tones emerge with air, adding depth to the richer, creamier core. A fine-boned acidity and a taut, mineral finish provide structure and lift, while gentle tannic tension frames the wine beautifully. Aged for 12 months in neutral oak.
This 2023 vintage was aged for 11 months in neutral oak, unfiltered, and estate bottled, with just 22 cases made. The wine is incredibly coiled and tense, showing subtle citrus notes of lemon and lime alongside white flowers and crushed Marcona almonds. The finish is long and saline, marked by a sharp mineral streak. Super crisp and tightly wound, it’s the kind of wine that demands food—think Alfredo, cacio e pepe, carbonara, or aged hard cheeses.
Grown by Friesen Vineyards and aged for 15 months in 35% new French oak, this Cabernet Franc comes from Ron Yates Winery, which opened in 2016 following the Yates family’s purchase of Spicewood Vineyards in 2007. With nearly two decades of experience in grape growing and winemaking in the Texas Hill Country, the team delivers a polished expression of the variety. The wine is driven by dark cherry and currant fruit layered with notes of sagebrush and prairie grass. On the palate, it shows a lean, iron-like crushed stone minerality, cedarwood spice, and supple, building tannins that carry through a long, smoky paprika finish.

This bright and zippy Sauvignon Blanc from Del Valley Vineyard, located about 70 miles from El Paso on a site of ancient river rock, is fresh and precise. Bursting with lemon-lime character, it’s laser-focused and lean, with a vibrant thread of limestone minerality running through it. Crisp and inviting, this Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent choice for those who appreciate a clean and mineral-driven white wine.
Just one barrel of this wine was produced, and I feel only slightly guilty they sent me even a single bottle to review (insert smiley face emoji here). But let me tell you—if you can get your hands on any, consider yourself lucky. This is a lovely, expressive, and supple-textured rosé with beautifully lifted orchard and stone fruit notes. The palate offers zesty, salty sea spray, honeydew melon, and perfectly crisp acidity, finishing with honeysuckle aromatics that linger. Way to go, winemaker Iaon Pohlit—this is rocking. More next time, please!
Fruit for this 100% Sauvignon Blanc from Sunol Highlands Vineyard at Nella Terra Winery in Livermore Valley is grown at 1,100 feet elevation. Fermented entirely in stainless steel, it’s understandably crisp and zippy, yet layered with rich notes of orange and lemon oil and salted Marcona almonds on the nose. Light- to medium-bodied, with crunchy orchard and citrus fruit framed by screaming saline-acid minerality through the tension-filled finish.
Roth’s winemaker is Henry de Lambert. Grapes are fermented in stainless steel and aged 14 months in a mix of 50% French and 50% American oak, with 10% new. As a result, there’s a noticeable dose of barrel tannin that brings some grip to the palate, along with tobacco and cedarwood notes. Cherry fruit and plum follow, joined by leather spice, cassis, and a touch of cocoa powder on the finish. I think this wine needs some time in the bottle to let the tannin integrate better and it will and then more fruit will shine.

Just nine barrels were produced of this expressive and captivating Pinot Noir, sourced from Rancho La Viña Vineyard. Native yeast fermentation with 100% whole clusters and extended barrel aging lend the wine remarkable complexity and aromatic lift. Black cherry fruit leaps from the glass, laced with incense, smoked paprika, and exotic spice. Finely layered apple-skin tannins provide excellent grip and texture across the mid-palate, while the dark cherry and spice notes carry through an everlasting, savory finish.

Oh my goodness—just wait until you stick your nose in the glass. As the name suggests, this Chardonnay will romance you (and fool you) into thinking it hails from Burgundy. It doesn’t—it’s pure Sta. Rita Hills—but it delivers all the elegance and tension you’d expect from France. The nose is a stunner: lemon oil, lemon zest, white peach, wet river stone, and that unmistakable crushed oyster shell sea spray character from the region’s diatomaceous-rich soils. And that’s just the beginning. On the palate, it’s broad yet focused, with saline-scented acidity underscoring layers of lemon and tangerine oil. Pressed wildflowers and mineral energy carry the finish, which seems to go on forever.
From Sashi Moorman (CEO at Povignage and managing partner for Domaine de la Côte, Sandhi Wines, and Evening Lands), comes this striking wine. Just 12 barrels were produced from regeneratively farmed vines nestled in a patch of oak woodland between Highway 1 and the Pacific Ocean, called the Jalama Canyon Ranch, owned by the White Buffalo Land Trust. This marks the third vintage of this bottling, and my first taste confirms what I suspected: if Moorman is behind it, I don’t just want a glass—I want most of the bottle. Tart, ripe, and expressive red berry fruit mingles with vivid white pepper spice and rich cherry pit character, all growing more intense and savory on the medium-bodied palate. Super fine, firm, mineral-rich tannins form a perfect foundation, supporting dusty salinity and waves of juicy, crunchy red berries and orchard fruit—like biting into a tart, crisp red apple or freshly picked raspberry. It’s layered with chalky white pepper and finishing with vibrant tension. Intriguing and complex. The proceeds of this wine go back to the White Buffalo Land Trust, which is focuses on “the principles of regenerative agriculture, we are developing systems that support biodiversity, water resources, soil and human health while enhancing ecosystem services,” according to its website.

Like a glassful of crunchy, juicy kumquats dusted with crushed almonds and a hint of wildflower honey, this white wine is framed by soaring lime-bright acidity that electrifies the palate. The finish is all candied citrus peel and crushed rock minerality—zesty, bracing, and undeniably vibrant. If you don’t serve it with oysters, you’re missing a golden opportunity.
Sourced from the Sangiacomo Roberts Road Vineyard in the northern part of the Petaluma Gap, this Pinot Noir is more refined than the straight Sonoma Coast bottling—elegant and layered with red-toned fruits, brown baking spice, grapefruit zest, and a lifted orange blossom florality. Medium-bodied on entry, it shows sinewy fine tannins, cool wet rock minerality, and fine-boned acid tension. The Roberts Road fruit comes from two rows of Dijon 777 and two rows of Pommard clone, fermented in a four-ton open-top stainless steel tank with twice-daily punch-downs for cap management, then pressed to 100% French medium-toast oak barrels (30% new) for 10 months of aging. A balanced and well-integrated expression of Pinot Noir. Sean Minor Wines was founded in 2005 by husband-and-wife team Sean and Nicole Minor, and is still family-owned and operated. In 2023, their daughter, Elle Minor, joined the team as winemaker. Wines are made from a combination of estate fruit and fruit purchased from sustainably farmed sources throughout California.

This is an opulent, fruit-forward, and generous Cabernet Sauvignon that bursts with blue-fruit fireworks, graphite, and cedarwood nuances. Full-bodied and pleasure-packed, it’s teeming with robust tannins and finishes with notes of dark chocolate and lingering graphite minerality. Composed entirely of Cabernet Sauvignon from the North Coast, with all fruit sourced from vineyards in Mendocino County, it was aged in a combination of medium and heavy toast French oak, 20% new. Hedonistic and expressive, it’s best enjoyed now and over the next three to five years. Sean Minor Wines was founded in 2005 by husband-and-wife team Sean and Nicole Minor, and is still family-owned and operated. In 2023, their daughter, Elle Minor, joined the team as winemaker. Wines are made from a combination of estate fruit and fruit purchased from sustainably farmed sources throughout California.

This 100% Chardonnay is sourced from several vineyards within Sonoma Carneros, including a small portion from the estate property. Aged for 10 months in French oak barrels, 20% of which were new, it’s a ripe, full-throttle, tropical-scented Chardonnay with a supple palate and toasty oak spices interlaced with baked apple and pear, all drizzled with a touch of lemon cream. Sean Minor Wines was founded in 2005 by husband-and-wife team Sean and Nicole Minor, and is still family-owned and operated. In 2023, their daughter, Elle Minor, joined the team as winemaker. Wines are made from a combination of estate fruit and fruit purchased from sustainably farmed sources throughout California.
This Pinot Noir hails from select Sonoma Carneros sites and was fermented in open-top stainless steel tanks before being pressed into French oak barrels—a mix of toast levels—where it completed malolactic fermentation and aged for 10 months, 20% new. It’s a soft, seductive, and full-bodied Pinot Noir with creamy dark cherry fruit, spiced plum, clove, and wet slate notes. Lengthy and fruit-driven on the finish. Sean Minor Wines was founded in 2005 by husband-and-wife team Sean and Nicole Minor, and is still family-owned and operated. In 2023, their daughter, Elle Minor, joined the team as winemaker. Wines are made from a combination of estate fruit and fruit purchased from sustainably farmed sources throughout California.

The 2023 Sebastiani Cabernet was made by Lisa Evich (formerly of Simi) along with Mari Wells Coyle, VP of winemaking. The blend is sourced primarily from Macama Vineyard in the northeast corner of Alexander Valley. The wine is fermented in stainless steel, then racked to barrel and aged 14 months in 25% new French oak. Sebastiani was purchased by Bill Foley in 2008. Production is carried out at the PreVail winery, while Cherryblock, for example, is vinified at Chateau St. Jean. As for the wine itself, it’s quite delicious. Dark black fruits lead the way, with rich brown baking spices, black plum, and black cherry. Fairly firm, slightly astringent tannins frame the palate—they’re compact and focused, resolving with graphite minerality and loamy earth on the lengthy finish. A powerful, bold red that will benefit from time to unwind.

This is the iconic wine of the winery. It includes fruit from their legendary old vines—massive, head-trained plants—along with some newer plantings. The blend is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot, aged 18 months in 70% new French oak. Mari Wells Coyle, VP of winemaking, says they aim to preserve the wine’s Italian heritage by maintaining bright acidity, which means embracing a slightly more gravelly tannin structure, a lower pH, and keeping that fresh cherry character front and center. And the wine delivers exactly that: vivid cherry fruit in spades, supported by a firm spine of crisp acidity and a gravelly, loamy earth character. Layers of leather, tobacco, and earth unfold across the palate, with a pop of English toffee on the long finish. The site is right on the way into the town of Sonoma, right at the base of the Mayacamas Mountains on the Sonoma side.

Super delicate on the nose, with wildflowers and white-peach notes and just a kiss of vanilla. Light- to medium-bodied, with those same lifted aromatics carrying onto the palate, finishing crisp with a faint, chalky minerality. 100% Albariño. Five barrels made, with some new-oak ageing. Sourced from Bingham Vineyards — who also grow organic peanuts and cotton.
From Friesen Vineyard in Brownfield, Texas, in the Texas High Plains—owned by Ron Yates—this wine was fermented in one-ton fermenters and aged in French oak, roughly 40% new, with tight-grain barrels to help manage tannins. The wine is bright and expressive, showing ripe dark berry and blue fruit with violet nuances and warm baking spice tones that build across the medium-bodied palate. Supple, ripe tannins and subtle cocoa powder notes carry through to the lengthy finish. Nicely balanced and well-structured, and if this is the direction Signor is headed under winemaker Michael Barton, it’s definitely one to watch.

Fermented in stainless steel and aged sur lie for about 6 months in concrete, this wine is sourced from Alta Loma Vineyards in the Texas High Plains near Brownfield, Texas. It’s fragrant and aromatic, showing rich baking spice character and dried floral notes with super-grippy acid tension and a candied mineral component. Subtle citrus fruit carries through on the medium-length finish.
TASTING NOTE: Lot #59. Barrel Sample: I began rating and reviewing Silver Oak Cabernets a couple of years ago, and recently published a major update on the winery for Decanter.com. Research for that piece meant regularly tasting with the Duncan family, and at one point, Tim and Matt Duncan dug into their personal cellar to share older vintages—wines that had aged impeccably. This bottling will prove to be no exception, but good luck holding onto it for too long: lifted, fragrant aromas of dark-toned sage, underbrush, and smoked paprika lead into a full-bodied, powerful red with excellent tension. Deep forest berry flavors and meaty tannins wrap around the bold fruit and savoury aromatics. Long, terrifically structured, and built to last. From the Auction Lot Catalog: ABOUT THE WINE: A unique opportunity to blend two varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, from estate vineyards in the Alexander Valley, “Essence of Estate” provided Winemaker Dan Kemp the opportunity to single out the most interesting lots and experiment beyond the traditional Silver Oak winemaking style to craft this one-of-a-kind wine. Silver Oak Cellars was founded in 1972, renowned for crafting Cabernet Sauvignon. Fueled by passion and driven by a relentless pursuit of perfection, its meticulously crafted Cabernet Sauvignons are exclusively aged in American Oak, creating wines of elegance, complexity, and consistency. Silver Oak’s wineries in Napa Valley and Alexander Valley are the first production wineries to achieve LEED Platinum certification, underscoring Silver Oak’s leadership in sustainable winemaking. Their commitment to quality and excellence has expanded other wine varietals and brands across Twomey, Timeless Napa Valley, and Prince Hill Vineyards, each providing a unique yet consistently exceptional wine experience. “Essence of Estate” opens with a bouquet of floral aromas, including lavender, lilac, and jasmine, leading into a rich blend of spices including clove, black pepper, and cedar. Beneath these notes, dark fruit accents of blackberry and black currant create a harmonious depth. On the palate, the spice and floral characteristics are echoed, enhanced by a touch of herbal freshness. With its refined structure, the wine offers smooth, velvety tannins that glide effortlessly into a satisfying, graceful finish. WINEMAKER(S): Dan Kemp ESTIMATED BOTTLING DATE: June 2026 ESTIMATED SHIPPING DATE: July 2027 National Distribution: Includes all 50 states and Washington, DC International Distribution: Includes Canada, Denmark, Japan, Norway; please inquire for additional countries.

Estate Chardonnay harvested in the early morning, with the cool fruit pressed directly and settled overnight before being transferred into Sandstone Jarre vessels—clay, stone, and terracotta—to ferment spontaneously. Fermented to dryness with full malolactic conversion, then aged eight months. I just love this Chardonnay. The aromatics evoke wet terracotta mingled with citrus and orchard fruit, and the palate is utterly lush—silky, soft, and completely mouth-filling. It’s richly textured without ever feeling heavy, the fruit remaining pure and vibrant, redolent of yellow apple and creamy pear. White floral notes add nuance, and the finish is long and lingering, carried by a lemony, oil-rich brightness. Yum.
An interpretation of a Right Bank blend, this wine takes its name from the fault line that runs through the Skipstone vineyard. Aged 19 months in 68% new French oak, it presents a distinctly different aromatic profile from the rest of the range. The bouquet is lifted and spicy, with notes of smoked and sweet paprika, a hint of coriander, and layers of blackberry, black cherry, and spiced plum. Crushed slate minerality emerges on the palate, adding structure and tension. The texture is slightly gritty in the best way, offering grip and precision.

A barrel selection of the finest Cabernet Franc blocks on the Skipstone estate, this wine was aged 19 months in 100% new French oak. Exceptionally refined, it captures the pure essence of the variety with lifted aromatics of sagebrush, tobacco, bay leaf, blue slate, and a touch of paprika. Medium to full-bodied, it offers generous layers of dark, ripe black fruit supported by crisp, finely etched tannins. There’s remarkable harmony between the fruit’s richness and the wine’s savoury, mineral-driven tension, resulting in length and precision. The structure is so compelling it nearly eclipses tasting descriptions, leaving only one lasting impression: sheer deliciousness. And in 10 to 20 years, this wine will evolve into something truly extraordinary—worthy of patience and a place in the cellar.

Sourced from the oldest vines on the steep, gravelly hillsides of the Skipstone estate, this wine was aged 19 months in 70% new French oak. It’s impeccably polished from the first sniff to the last sip, with ultra-smooth, satiny tannins that glide across the palate like polished obsidian. The fruit profile is deep and dark, leaning toward blue-toned fruit layered with notes of sage and pine forest. Subtle cocoa powder nuances linger on the long, saline, acid-driven finish.

The introduction to the Skipstone lineup, this wine is crafted from the four red Bordeaux varieties planted on the estate and aged 19 months in 40% new French oak. First released in 2017, it serves as an elegant entry point to the Skipstone portfolio at $75. The aromatics are pure and expressive, offering vibrant notes of black cherry, blackberry, cocoa powder, and tobacco, layered with deep forest tones and a thread of mineral tension. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied with beautifully ripe, crunchy red and black fruit, laced with graphite and accented by delicate red floral notes that bring lift and finesse to the finish.

Added to the portfolio in 2021, this Cabernet Sauvignon was born from a desire to explore vineyard sources beyond the Skipstone estate. Aged 19 months in 60% new French oak, it offers a seductive red-fruited profile with notes of red apple skin, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry. Fragrant hints of sagebrush and bay laurel weave through the bouquet, adding savoury complexity. The palate is medium-bodied and layered, with crunchy apple-skin tannins lightly dusted in cocoa powder. As the wine opens, deeper tones of dark berry fruit, wet slate, and loamy earth emerge, all carried by a subtle salinity that extends through the long finish.

A barrel selection of Skipstone’s best Cabernet Sauvignon blocks from the estate, this wine was aged 19 months in 100% new French oak. It is strikingly polished, pure, and seductive—full-bodied yet effortlessly silky in texture. The palate evokes the sensation of a perfectly ripe blueberry dusted with cocoa powder, layered with earthy notes reminiscent of a redwood grove after rain—loamy soil, red bark, and cool forest air. The tannins are exquisitely fine and powdery, supporting a finish that lingers for what feels like minutes. Structural yet seamless, this wine’s quiet power and underlying tension give it poise and vitality. It’s so graceful and integrated that you might miss its depth if you’re not paying attention—but you’ll love the palate energy and tension no matter what.

Fermented in stainless steel, with ageing split between partial acacia wood puncheons—used to build mid-palate weight and aromatic intensity—and stainless steel for five months. Very bright, crisp, energetic, and clean, with citrus notes alongside subtle hints of papaya and mango, flinty minerality, and white flowers on the nose. Medium-bodied on the palate, with excellent tension and grip, leading to a clean, mineral-driven finish with a saline edge. Fruit is sourced from Lahey Vineyards and Narra Vineyards in the Texas High Plains, along with estate fruit from the Texas Hill Country AVA.
This blend of 68% Syrah, 21% Grenache, and 11% Mourvèdre delivers a pleasingly spicy, red-fruited wine that brims with the aromatic intensity of a just-baked blondie cookie. Ripe, juicy red fruit defines the silky palate expression, building to a lengthy, fruit- and spice-driven medium-bodied finish.

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The Hydra Red Wine is a blend of 73% Cabernet Franc and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from Black Ridge Vineyard—an organically farmed, 80-acre site planted at 1,000 feet in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Fermentation was 60% whole cluster (foot-trodden) and 40% destemmed whole berries, with native fermentations on the skins for 11 days, followed by 10 months in neutral 500L oak puncheons. Absolutely gorgeous: ruby-fruited with dark cherry accents, pure, ripe, and electric, layered with exotic brown spices and smoked paprika. Ultra-fine, powdery tannins and wet-stone minerality grip the palate. It’s so satisfying and so delicious you almost can’t believe it.

From the winery’s six-acre Marine Layer Vineyard, planted in 2016 on a southwest-facing slope near Sebastopol, this wine is solid and full-bodied, with aromatic spice from toasty cedarwood (aged in 30% new French oak). Succulent and red-cherry fruited, it carries apple-skin notes and a touch of blondie brownie richness. Absolutely lip-smacking. The blend includes Calera, Mt. Eden, 667, 115, and, according to the winery’s tech sheet, “a few special suitcase selections.”

This 100% Cabernet Franc, aged for 18 months in French oak, comes from Clone 11 (French 214) grown at Lucky 8 Vineyard in the southeastern portion of the Livermore Valley. The wine explodes from the glass with bold oak overtones framing blackberry and spiced plum fruit. It’s a meaty, heady wine layered with loamy earth, pressed violets, soft, supple tannins, and loads of juicy character. This is your burger Cabernet Franc—some for the meat on the grill, the rest for the glass.

Aged for 14 months in 20% new French oak. Sourced from S & C Newsome Vineyards in the Texas High Plains, this Montepulciano exemplifies McPherson’s hallmark consistency of quality and style from vintage to vintage. It offers tart cherry fruit, cedarwood, and a subtle meaty nuance, all unfolding across a medium-bodied palate with velvety tannins and lingering black tea notes on the finish.

Syrah fruit for this wine comes from both the East Side and West Side estate properties. It was fermented with 65% whole cluster in 1.5-ton open-top stainless steel bins, then pressed to barrel and aged for 11 months prior to bottling. This is a far more approachable Syrah than Donna’s Block—juicier and more supple, with blackberry, black cherry, and blueberry fruit leading the way. The tannins are gentler, yet still carry a crisp, crunchy edge, balanced by expressive, juicy acidity with a blood orange character. Aromatically complex, the wine offers layers of perfumed rose petals, clove, and incense, with dried sage and spearmint adding nuance. Super fresh, inviting, and wonderfully complete.

Donna’s Block is located on the east side of the estate, surrounding the winery. Fermented with 100% whole cluster in 1.5-ton open-top stainless steel bins, this wine requires foot-stomping in the early days to break things up enough for punchdowns. “The stems are perfectly ripe,” says assistant winegrower Garrett Adelman. After fermentation, the wine is pressed to all neutral oak and aged for 18 months. Typically picked in November, the grapes never become overripe—pH remains low, preserving freshness and balance. Let me tell you: this is one of the most expressive Syrahs you’ll taste from the Sta. Rita Hills. It’s a complex enigma of a wine—medium- to full-bodied, with firm, taut, mineral-laced tannins that carry a subtle meaty quality, reminiscent of the best black truffle charcuterie you’ve ever had. That profound structure frames juicy black cherry, early-season blueberry, and blackberry seed, layered with clove, allspice, incense, rose stem, perfumed violets, both fresh and dried. The finish? So very long. Just—wow.

Rich, potent, and alluring. Dark spices and even hints of iron mix with tobacco, truffle, blackberry, blue plum, and incense on the nose. The palate is remarkably consistent, adding blood orange acidity to the wild berry and plum flavors. Packs a punch, but lands all of its hits elegantly. – J.R.

This Dolcetto from the Michael Ros Vineyard in the Texas High Plains is a bright, high-toned, and spicy red wine with notes of agave and red licorice. Framed by gentle, well-integrated tannins, it’s lean yet packs power and intensity, carrying through to a savory, dried herb finish.

Aged for 25 months in 28% new French oak barrels, this wine marks the first red blend release under the Envisage label—the name symbolizing the bold leap that Michael and Rosanne took in founding their family-owned boutique winery in the Texas Hill Country. This medium-bodied blend is framed by red berry fruit and warm baking spice, layered with white pepper nuances and a touch of richness. Juicy and fresh on the palate, it shows firm, taut, mineral-laced tannins and finishes bone dry with lingering spice and energy.

Rich cassis and currant fruit are layered with earthy Hudson Valley forest tones and savory sage. The medium-bodied palate builds with notes of espresso bean and firm, burly tannins, all driven by coiled acidity that fuels a long, mouthwatering finish.

A blend of fruit from Long Island and the Hudson Valley, aged in 10% new French oak (confirm via tech sheet). This is a well-knit, expressive Cabernet Franc showing both red and black fruit, with cedarwood and graham cracker spice layered over sagebrush and tobacco leaf aromatics. The medium-bodied palate carries those same notes forward, supported by fine-grained, cohesive tannins and finishing with a lift of cocoa powder, blood orange, and raspberry fruit.

A very elegant Cabernet Franc with a muscular framework of robust, velvety tannins. Bright, pure red berry fruit leads the way, with crunchy cherry and apple-like nuance. Hints of dark salted chocolate thread from the nose through to the tannins, carrying into a mouthwatering, acid-driven finish.

Stylistically similar to the estate Vineyard Milea BDX Red Blend, this wine leans darker, with forest berry fruit, conifer, and cedarwood spice. Medium- to full-bodied, it delivers supple, juicy dark fruit layered with a touch of salty dark chocolate and lifted by blood orange acidity. The finish is long, expressive, and remarkably fresh.

Here’s a Cabernet Franc with a splash of Merlot, sourced from Long Island growers and aged 15 months in a mix of Burgundy and Bordeaux barrels. The nose opens with rich cherry and forest berries, layered with brown spices, leather, tobacco, and licorice. The medium-bodied palate features spiced plum and loamy earth, finishing with floral lift and mineral nuance

Sourced from both hillside blocks and rows along the road leading to the winery, this six-barrel selection was hand-picked, destemmed, and fermented in open tops with punchdowns and pumpovers. Aged for around 15 months, it’s slightly riper and more concentrated than the 2021, it offers mulberry fruit, brown spice, and a medium-bodied richness. The tannins are plumper yet still grippy, with just enough tension to support the juicy core.

This 2022 Monroy Wines Cabernet Sauvignon hails from Kick Ranch, a 40-acre vineyard on the western slope of Spring Mountain in the Mayacamas Mountains, within the Fountaingrove District of Sonoma, where vines grow in iron-rich soils—and that mineral quality remains evident, even with the riper fruit character brought on by the warmer vintage. The oak is a bit more pronounced in 2022, yet the palate is utterly charming, leaning into dark fruit tones of black raspberry, balsamic strawberry, dark chocolate, and cherry. It’s more fruit-driven and less earthy than the 2021, but equally joyful to drink, with fine, powdery tannins that build a bit with some grip but land softly through a graceful finish. A very nice wine from the challenging 2022 vintage from Adolfo Hernandez who explained his background and winemaking style to me as follows: “I was the enologist and then assistant winemaker at Eisele Vineyard, splitting my time—two years each—between the Araujos and Château Latour. From there, I spent a year with Martha McClellan at Checkerboard, where we also made her gorgeous Levy & McClellan wines. In 2017, I started as associate winemaker at Benovia in the Russian River Valley with Mike Sullivan, where I’m happily still working today. I now make Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for Benovia while also producing wines under my own Monroy label. I focus on crafting cooler-climate style Cabernet Sauvignon that emphasizes floral and savory notes. All fermentations are done in barrel via closed-head rolling macerations, which I cooper myself. Barrel fermentation gives richness and density to the wines without the need to blend or harvest riper, more bombastic components, and naturally keeps the alcohol levels at or below 14%. I use only French oak, typically around 40% new.”

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