Cristaldi Scores

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The 1995 is a stunningly beautiful wine, offering layers of pressed violets, dried rose petals, loamy earth, currant, and cassis. Juicy acidity remains vibrant and fully in check, balanced by firm, mineral-rich tannins. With time in the glass, notes of leather, tar, black olive, liquorice, and charcuterie emerge, adding depth and savory complexity. Enjoy this wine with pizza at Fiocha Pizza in Mattituck, NY.

Absolutely stunning. This wine strikes a remarkable balance of richness and freshness, layered with savoury depth. Super-fine tannins carry notes of leather, tobacco, and black tea—think Earl Grey—wrapped around cassis and blackcurrant fruit. It’s long, fresh, and vibrant from the pull of the cork, evolving beautifully with air to reveal sumptuous waves of rich earth, spice, smoked paprika, and undeniable elegance.

This is absolutely spectacular. At 15 years of age, the wine is riveting—showing the kind of secondary complexity you might wait 25 years to see in Bordeaux or Napa. Here, Cabernet Franc has evolved into a deeply expressive, medium- to full-bodied wine with layered cassis and red currant fruit, loamy earth, and dried eucalyptus. Notes of bay laurel, orange zest, and a hint of vanilla lift the finish, which is long, earthy, and energized by zesty acidity.

The 2010, which winemaker Kareem Massoud opened, was seriously impressive—showing pure berry fruit, currants, and warm brown spices. Juicy acidity lifts the mid-palate, while pressed floral notes and firm, expressive tannins guide the wine toward a long, mineral-driven finish.

The 2010 shows some tension right out of the gate, but with air, it opens beautifully—offering cassis, currant, wet slate, and warm brown spices. The palate builds with integrated tannins that carry both grip and a velvety texture, framed by savory notes of sage and bay laurel. A firm saline-acid tension drives the finish.

From Mark Snyder’s Red Hook Winery comes this Reserve, crafted by Christopher Nicolson with consulting from Abe Schoener. At 15 years of age, it’s remarkably enjoyable—downright enviable. The wine has developed an almost sherry-like character, with ripe cassis evolving into dark, sweet currants layered with baking spices and maple-honey tannins. Rich tones of dark loamy earth and black tea deepen the complexity, while the long, lingering finish echoes with salted crushed almonds, dried dates, and apricot.

The ‘Jour 1’ (‘Day 1’) explores Le Levant, south of Avize. 100% Chardonnay. Rich and full with a heady bouquet of jasmine, Mirabelle, and nougat. A fine, creamy mousse unspools with Granny Smith apple, flaky croissant, and salted caramel. Taut, tense, and mineral-driven.
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay from Ambonnay. A lemony-rich bouquet brings forward decadent sugar-dusted pastries, toasted almonds, and dried apricots. Impressively taut with fleshy yellow apple, ripe pear, and fine-boned acidity. A vein of chalky minerality rounds out a long finish of black truffle, smoked sea salt, and lemon zest
Produced only in the best vintages, this wine offers impressive richness with creamy orchard fruit, fresh French pastry notes, and a beautifully layered nutty complexity. There’s a lengthy, toasty brioche character threaded with flinty minerality, leading to a savory, saline-acid finish. Eight years sur lie lends remarkable depth, yet the wine remains strikingly fresh and balanced on the long, inviting close. Disgorged 8.31.23 and 4.14.24. Dosage: 6 g/L.
Olivier Bonville of Champagne Franck Bonville (based in Avize) and stepson Ferdinand Ruelle are exploring the 319 Champagne villages. The ‘Jour 2’ (‘Day 2’) takes us to Le Couchant, north of Avize. 100% Chardonnay. Compact, mind-bogglingly complex. Exquisite fine beading is persistent. Savory, mineral-kissed, loaded with orchard fruits, mulberry, cherry, black truffle, and sous bois nuances—incredible.
Clean and expressive, this 2015 vintage-dated sparkling wine opens with lifted aromas of orchard and stone fruit, accented by hints of almond and white flowers. The mousse is assertive and creamy, building on the palate with toasty brioche notes. Excellent mid-palate concentration and a long, acid-driven finish underscore its remarkable freshness and vitality, even after extended time on the lees. The fruit was sourced from estate vineyards on the west side of Seneca Lake: 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay.
Barrel-aged for an impressive 76 months in French oak, this bottling is the second release of 10 barrels from an old vine field blend of Merlot, Touriga Nacional, and Ruby Cabernet, bottled unfiltered. The result is a truly intriguing wine: rich with molasses character, stewed red fruit, and sweet spice notes, evoking a tawny port-like nose. These same flavors carry through on the palate, with a touch of strawberry balsamic reduction adding complexity. The tannins are still quite firm and present, building on the long, nutty finish.

This Robert Clay Sangiovese from Mandola Vineyards, which was ripped out sadly, produced from a single barrel of the 2015 vintage and aged for 65 months in French oak, presents a truly unique and intriguing rendition of the variety. At the pull of the cork, the wine is fresh and currant-driven, and builds with air into an unmistakably Port-like power, which is quite rare—and fascinating—for Sangiovese. Bone dry on the finish and with a sherry-like quality, and with more air it offers toasty nutty notes and currant fruit flavors, complemented by rich spice cake nuances. This is truly a one-of-a-kind expression of Sangiovese.

The ‘B 15 00 RCV MER’ is 100% Merlot. Fermented in picking bins, then racked into stainless steel tanks to settle before being barreled down for 26 months. It delivers rich black currant fruit and warm baking spices, with notes of spiced plum and plump, satiny tannins that glide into a long, balanced finish with just the right amount of tension.

The ‘B 15 01 RCV MTR’ hails from the 2015 vintage and represents the first two of ten barrels from an old vine field blend, aged for 76 months in 100% neutral Radoux medium+ toast French oak. This deeply expressive wine marries the lifted florals and blue fruit tones of the 2017 with the herbaceous spice and bright acidity of the 2016. Aromas of dried violet, grilled agave, and spicy currants unfold into a layered palate of tart red berries, dark cassis, and blood orange. Rich loamy earth, black truffle, and nutty undertones weave through a full-bodied frame, supported by sappy tannins and a savory, saline-tinged finish. The texture is firm yet supple, with persistent energy and depth from its extended barrel aging.

The ‘B 15 02 RCV MTR’ is the same wine as the ‘B 15 01 RCV MTR’—from the 2015 vintage and crafted from an old vine field blend—aged instead for an extraordinary 100 months in 100% neutral Radoux medium+ toast French oak. The currant and spiced plum fruit found in the 76-month-aged version is still present, now evolving into more tertiary territory. Notes of dusty sagebrush, loamy earth, kirsch, and crushed almonds emerge, along with spiced nuts and plenty of textural tannin to carry the wine’s weight and complexity. NOT YET RELEASED as of May 2025. Check with winery.

The ‘B 15 03 RCV MTR’ is the same wine as the ‘B 15 01 RCV MTR’—from the 2015 vintage and made from an old vine field blend—aged for an exceptional 114 months in 100% neutral Radoux medium+ toast French oak. The once-bright currant and spiced plum fruit has evolved into dried fruit and rich rum raisin cake, showing deep maturity and layered complexity. The tannins remain grippy but are finally beginning to resolve, leading to a long, spicy finish. Not yet released as of May 2025. Check with the winery for availability.

From Martini Family Vineyards, this wine is crushed and pressed into stainless steel and fermented with indigenous yeast. It offers expressive vinous aromatics layered with fresh apple and lemon verbena, supported by subtle honeycomb notes. A through line of lime-bright minerality carries the wine to a lifted finish.
Seven generations of the Monmarthes have farmed slopes in the Premier Cru village of Ludes. Taut, racy, and complex. Baked apples and pears emerge through an assertive mousse. The saline mid-palate is balanced by chalky minerals, finishing with Marcona almonds and smoky sea salt.
The ‘B 16 00 RCV MER’ is 100% Merlot. Fermented in picking bins, then racked into stainless steel tanks to settle before being barreled down for 38 months. This wine shows greater density and richness than previous vintages, with deep currant fruit beginning to take on a Port- or Sherry-like quality. A rich nuttiness is emerging, along with a rum-raisin character that adds complexity and a sense of coiled-up energy.

The ‘B 16 00 RCV TOU’ is 100% Touriga Nacional, aged for 36 months in neutral barrels. The nose offers spicy currant fruit and herbaceous aromatics, leading into a palate of tart red berries, blood orange, and sappy tannins. The finish is marked by a spicy, saline-acid tension that adds lift and vibrancy.

Unfolding in layers and taking its sweet time about it, this red is exquisite and quite reserved at the moment. It’s going to take some time (and then some more time) to fully come around. But as the earth, leather, rose petal, and red fruit action develops, it will turn into an absolutely understated beauty. – J.R.

Bending Branch’s 2017 Tannat, sourced from Newsom Vineyards in the Texas High Plains, is a medium- to full-bodied red that opens with vibrant cherry and strawberry fruit notes, complemented by white pepper spices. A powerful baseline of tannins provides structure, with nicely ripe and well-integrated tannins that add depth and smoothness. As the wine unfolds, nuances of tobacco and sage build complexity, leading to a mineral-rich finish.

Quite lovely. Lemon pastry and toasty, buttered-croissant notes build in the glass, framed by a rich, frothy, airy mousse that resolves with fine tension and a chalky mineral edge. A slick lemon-oil mid-palate carries the finish, layered with honeydew melon, apple and poached pear. You too can be a champ with Le Champ—just don’t call it Champagne. Call it The Champ, or Champers. Better yet, don’t overthink it at all. Pop the cork and enjoy with gusto.
Aged six years en tirage with a dosage of 3 g/L, this is a bright, vinous sparkling wine with notes of almond, white flowers, and abundant orchard fruit. The palate is fresh, clean, and marked by a steely mineral edge.
Heady black truffle, wild herbs, licorice, and salty sea spray notes. A bright, assertive mousse leads to creamy waves of caramelized pears and bruised yellow apples through a salty mineral finish. 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir.
A rare 100% Pinot Blanc from Ville-sur-Arce, farmed by Rémy Massin, a salt of the earth Récoltant Manipulant. Vivid and bright. Lemon zest, smoky minerals, and wildflowers. Voluminous with profound lemony-intensity and crisp orchard fruit. Long, concentrated finish. Ageworthy.
Bright and attractive with white flowers, orchard fruits, and flaky French buttered pastry. Rich with a persistent mousse and layers of yellow apple, poached pear, vanilla cream, pastry crust, and a lemony finish.
Sources for this wine are El Diablo and Star Ridge, planted to Pommard and Vosne Romanée selections. Star Ridge is the older site and was originally part of the Gary Farrell estate. The Pommard here is Clones 4 and 5, with Clone 5 being the cleaned-up selection. At this stage, the fruit profile leans a touch baked, but it’s still quite delicious—think strawberry and cherry pie with classic cherry-pie spice. The palate is rich, satiny and velvety, driving a long, creamy and inviting finish.

2017 marked the first year that partners Christopher P. Bates MS, and Robert W. Bates began farming this estate, managing to coax just under a ton per acre from the vineyard. Sourced from their Sunspot and Underdog blocks, the fruit was destemmed, spontaneously fermented with ambient yeasts, then basket-pressed and aged in old neutral French oak. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, the wine strikes a nice balance between fruit density and rustic earthiness, lending real complexity. Dark cherry fruit and cocoa powder tannins create a chewy, textured palate, lifted by tangy acid tension. The low yields undoubtedly contribute to the wine’s depth and concentration. Now, eight years on, this wine still has a promising future ahead!

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This 2022 is a bold, robust Cabernet Franc with dark fruit intensity and firm, building tannins. Bright currant fruit weaves through layers of rich mahogany spice, black olive, and brown baking spices. The finish is long and structured, anchored by juicy, concentrated fruit and a compelling wet stone minerality.

Sourced from the vines just behind the winery—easily visible from the patio—this dessert Sauvignon Blanc was served at the 50th anniversary of the NATO alliance. It’s a wonderfully expressive, detail-driven wine, offering ripe apricot, orange oil, honeysuckle, and jasmine. Never cloying, it’s lush yet balanced, with incredible acid tension and remarkable length.
Winemaker Kareem Massoud says this took six weeks to finish fermentation—and he was thrilled with the vintage. And no wonder: this is something else. Deep black in color with blue highlights, it opens with inky dark berry fruit, blue fruit, and violet aromatics. A bold, ripe expression of Long Island Cabernet Sauvignon, it delivers a full-bodied palate with soaring tannins and a finish that layers cedarwood spice, tar, black olive, and pressed rose petals. Powerful, structured, and built to age—this is a red wine with serious longevity.

The flagship wine for Pedernales Cellars, this blend was aged for 18 months in a combination of new and neutral oak and sourced primarily from Lahey Vineyard, with fruit from Daniel Vineyard supplementing. It’s a fantastically bold, supple, and dark-fruited wine, showing blue fruit nuances, dark chocolate notes, and a touch of chalky minerality. Supple tannins frame the full-bodied finish.

Sourced from Pepperjack Vineyard in the Texas High Plains, the 2022 Teroldego was aged for 18 months in a mix of neutral French and American oak. It’s a bold, juicy wine brimming with red and black fruit, showing a meaty richness on the palate nuanced by violets and candied rose petal notes. Supple yet firm tannins provide structure, while the finish is bold, juicy, and rich.

This Viognier offers a high-toned nose but transitions beautifully on the palate, where it is broad, generous, and thoroughly delicious. Medium-bodied with a lush orchard fruit character, it is accented by a drizzle of honey and a hint of crushed almonds. The finish is lengthy and gently spiced.
From the Presqu’ile Vineyard comes this elegant, light- to medium-bodied Pinot Noir with supple, velvet-textured tannins and graceful, lifted acidity. Layers of strawberry-rhubarb interlace with bright baking spice notes, while a subtle pink Himalayan sea salt nuance adds intrigue on the medium-length finish.

The Runaway Vineyard Pinot Noir is a supple, juicy expression of the grape, offering generous dark berry fruit layered with fine cedarwood spice, a hint of agave nectar, and espresso bean. Gentle tannins and medium-bright acidity frame the wine, making for an easy-going, approachable, and thoroughly satisfying sip.

A supple, juicy Petite Sirah with expressive notes of rose petal, blackberry, and black cherry, accented by black pepper. Medium-bodied on the palate, with soft plum-like tannins, bright red berry fruit, and baking spices, all wrapped in a salty, saline minerality on the medium-length finish. The tannic muscle of Petite Sirah is nicely tamed here.

An incredibly juicy red that’s dark and plummy and still a bit young. You can really sense the structure in the dryness of the mid-palate, amid the flavors of black cherry and hints of leather. Grab a burger to tame it and enjoy. – J.R.

The Buena Suerte Vineyard in the Texas High Plains, planted on Patricia and Amarillo loamy fine sands, supplies the Mourvèdre for this 2022 release. My favourite of the four Portree Cellars reds I sampled from the 2022 vintage, it is ripe and red-fruit driven, with nicely integrated cedarwood spice. Full-bodied, with round, supple tannins, it brims with juicy dark-berry fruit, loamy earth, dried sage, paprika and a fine sprinkling of cocoa powder on the long, saline finish. A wine to drink all night long — ideally paired with brisket, pulled pork or beer-can chicken rubbed with smoked paprika.

Malbec sourced from the 1,040-acre Lahey Vineyard in Portree Cellar’s hands is high-toned, floral-driven, with mixed berry fruit, cedar spices, and dried sage. Medium-bodied with sinewy tannins, a hint of fig paste layers itself under that mixed berry fruit character, and high-toned acidity keeps everything light and fresh on the finish.

The Portree Cellars Fiano, sourced from Pepper Jack Vineyard in the Texas High Plains, is a vibrant and expressive wine. It showcases aromas of citrus peel, lemon oil, and toasted hazelnuts, creating a compelling and layered profile.Medium-bodied on the palate, it offers a touch of white pepper spice and additional dried floral notes that carry through to the finish.
Portree’s Touriga Nacional from the Phillips Vineyard in the Texas High Plains leaps out of the glass with surprising florality, red berries, and tropical fruit like guava and passion fruit, with underpinnings of cinnamon spices and a building depth of dark cherry fruit and raspberry fruit, and exotic florals with high-toned acid tension on the finish. Not exactly what you’d expect from a red, and a little sharp on the finish, but if you’re making Sangria, I’d buy this by the case-load. Keep following this producer and see how the 2023 release turns out.

Sourced from Timmons Estate, an 18-acre vineyard in Lubbock County, Texas High Plains — purchased by several Texas wineries including Lost Draw Cellars and William Chris Vineyards — where vines are rooted in sandy-loam soils. Portree’s Tempranillo from this site opens with ripe red-berry fruit before segueing into an intensely savoury profile, with prairie grass, green olives and lavender. The juicy ruby-red fruit is framed by grippy acidity, finishing with rose-petal florals and grapefruit zest.

Harvested just after midnight to preserve freshness, this white was made with precision and intention—sourced from the north-facing side of the vines to enhance its lean, mineral character. Inspired by the wines of Southern Burgundy, it was whole-cluster pressed, barrel-fermented in neutral French oak, and aged sur lie for six months. A Burgundian yeast strain was used to further emulate the region’s style. The result is a mineral-driven wine bursting with peach, pear, and yellow apple. The palate showcases pure stone fruit flavors with a refined, almost delicate elegance. -JR

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