I had this with a mortadella dish from The Park Inn in Hammondsport, NY—a glorious stack served on grilled focaccia with olives and orange mustard—and the pairing absolutely soared. It has a nutty, brown-spice depth that turns into cherry-almond marzipan on the palate. Paired with that mortadella, it draws out all the savory, nutty nuance and then rinses the fat clean with precision and lift. Do yourself a favor: recreate this pairing, or you’re missing out. Winemaker Phil Plummer is like a modern-day Icarus, flying just a little too close to the sun with his experiments—but the results are golden. Keep flying, Phil.