This Estate Grenache comes from Thompson Vineyard, planted in the late 1980s and situated on the slopes of Alisos Canyon in the Los Alamos Valley, where own-rooted vines grow in sandy loam soils under cooler conditions. According to the winery, this bottling was “sourced entirely from ‘Michael’s Block,’ a sélection massale of old wild vines situated on the eastern half of our estate vineyard in shaley loam soils with slightly cooler and less direct sun exposure.” What I can add is that it’s a profoundly layered wine, with beautifully fine, almost sandy tannins—like pure fine-grained beach sand—supporting a supple, medium- to full-bodied red that’s elegantly perfumed with sweet rose petals, cocoa powder, vanilla, and cedar. Ruby-red grapefruit notes emerge on the palate, adding an unbeatable freshness factor. The wine is absolutely riveting, with a deep core of dark berry fruit, traces of blue fruit compote, violets, lifted ground espresso, and exotic peach and apricot nuances, all bolstered by generous slate-stone minerality. I discovered these wines while tasting through a bevy of producers for my recent report on Santa Barbara County, and they are true standouts. But here’s the bad news: only 49 cases were produced—just under two barrels—and it’s available exclusively to wine club members. So do the right thing: get in with the Dovecote club. Grenache lovers do not want to miss this.