Sourced from the Hyland Vineyard in Oregon. Native yeast, whole-cluster pressed, fermented, and aged sur lie in concrete. Malolactic conversion is inhibited. Aged eight months in concrete amphora, bottled unfined and unfiltered. This own-rooted Riesling was planted in 1973 on red volcanic soils southwest of McMinnville, near the Van Duzer Corridor. Bob Cabrall notes that the vines now have trunks the size of small trees. “I walked the site myself and ended up buying a couple of tons.” The wine builds in the glass with classic petrol tones alongside white flowers, Kaffir lime, and lemon drop. The acidity is positively bracing, which makes sense given the numbers: pH 3.09 and TA of 8 g/L. A touch of residual sugar balances that electric brightness. Long and mouthwateringly crisp. 119 cases produced ($60).

Sourced from the Hyland Vineyard in Oregon. Native yeast, whole-cluster pressed, fermented, and aged sur lie in concrete. Malolactic conversion is inhibited. Aged eight months in concrete amphora, bottled unfined and unfiltered. The 2021 is right in the same pocket as the 2020, super expressive of fresh Kaffir Lime, white flowers and honeysuckle with flinty mineral character, resonating on the palate. Excellent fruit weight and depth of flavors, but about as bright and tension-filled as it gets with a pH of 3.02 and TA of 8.2 g/L. 117 cases produced ($60).

Sourced from the Hyland Vineyard in Oregon. Native yeast, whole-cluster pressed, fermented, and aged sur lie in concrete. Malolactic conversion is inhibited. Aged eight months in concrete amphora, bottled unfined and unfiltered. Perfumed herbs recall Yellow Chartreuse, crushed dill, and even a touch of bacon fat, layered over a flinty mineral core and crushed sea salt. On the palate, silky and lush poached pear is balanced by mouth-puckering acidity and tension. Notes of oyster shell carry through the lengthy, savory-spiced finish. What a complex and thoroughly delicious wine. 125 cases produced, $60.