Quite lovely. Lemon pastry and toasty, buttered-croissant notes build in the glass, framed by a rich, frothy, airy mousse that resolves with fine tension and a chalky mineral edge. A slick lemon-oil mid-palate carries the finish, layered with honeydew melon, apple and poached pear. You too can be a champ with Le Champ—just don’t call it Champagne. Call it The Champ, or Champers. Better yet, don’t overthink it at all. Pop the cork and enjoy with gusto.