Julien Fayard’s 2021 Covert Cabernet from the Coombsville AVA is a full-bodied, silky, super-enticing wine with heady boysenberry fruit, dark cacao, and sweet oak spices. Plush, velvety tannins form a solid foundation, framing gobs of dark berry fruit, cassis, graphite, wild herbs, and cedar spices. All too easy to drink, and at 14.9% alcohol, balanced as it is, this is a wine to savor with a burger and fries, roast chicken and potatoes, or braised meats and hearty stews.